1-5 Windmill Row,
Kennington,
London,
SE11 5DW
(020) 7735 9338
The ViewLondon Review
For years, Thai Silk was a mainstay of the vibrant restaurant scene clustered round Kennington Cross, but then it all went wrong: the food and service fell apart, and the previously loyal clientele voted with their feet. But now it’s back on blistering form: though still part of the Thai Silk mini-chain (with branches in Southwark and at the O2), it has a new name, look and menu, and its relieved customers are returning in droves.
The Venue
With an upmarket chain pizzeria and deli/cafe for next-door-neighbours, Thai Ming is part of the impressive, varied dining scene centred on Kennington Cross, a pleasant, neighbourly, middle class oasis in the midst of gritty south London. The restaurant’s new incarnation is simple and stylish, boasting pristine white walls dotted with Thai carved pictures, grown-up dark wood chairs, padded banquets and spot lighting. There are 44 well-spaced covers plus, on clement evenings, another 40 outside in a charming courtyard.
The Atmosphere
The mean streets may not be far away but Thai Ming’s patrons are the local middle-class intelligentsia. A relaxed, animated vibe is fostered by tactile and motherly maitresse d’ for whom nothing is too much trouble, and her attentive brigade.
The Food
A hefty menu starts with two pages of chef’s recommendations from which som tam je, a Thai papaya salad with peanuts, lemon and tamarind juice (£7.95), serves as a starter. The generous portion of shredded, unripe papaya is augmented with green beans and cherry tomatoes. The peanuts, lemon and tamarind all add their notes to create a gloriously crunchy, astringent and healthy plateful. From the starters proper, krabeung talay (£5.95) is a crepe filled with minced prawn and squid with nutty chilli and cucumber dip. It’s top-notch Thai fishcakes reinvented as a pancake.
Mains are divided into sections like stir fries (spicy and non-), items from the grill, and curries. If perusing the numerous options seems too much like hard work, set menus start from a bargain £16.95 per person. Being such a well-worn classic, chicken green curry (£6.90) is a good yardstick of the kitchen’s capabilities, and Thai Ming’s is not found wanting, delivering all the classic coconut, lemongrass, chilli and fish sauce flavours. It’s a generous portion, too, of tender chunks of meat, halved Thai aubergines and snow peas. Panang gae (£12.95) features that modern British staple-of-the-moment, the braised lamb shank, but in a rich, limey, sweet basil curry sauce. The meat falls off the bone, as a lamb shank’s should, and the sauce is complex and assured. Steamed rice (£2.10) is elegantly fragrant, sticky rice (£2.30) properly glutinous, and stir-fried egg noodles (£3.80) deliciously slippery.
From seven dessert options, very reasonably priced at £2.95 to £3.95, kway tord is two hearty chunks of banana fritter with vanilla ice cream. The batter is crisp, the banana hasn’t turned to mush, it’s not too sweet despite the delightful presence of honey, and the ice cream is winningly creamy. It’s hard to see how such a pud could be improved. Scoops of coconut and chocolate ice cream (vanilla and strawberry are also available, and there’s mango or lime sorbet) also impress: the coconut is smooth and subtle, the chocolate dark and sinful.
The Drink
You might consider starting your night with a cocktail, particularly when you clock the prices: classics like pina colada, mai tai, tequila sunrise and mojito are all an insanely generous £4.95. Non-alcoholic varieties are £2.95, and even champagne cocktails like bucks fizz and Kir royale don’t break the bank at £5.50.
A modest wine list features 11 whites, eight reds and three roses, starting at a very fair £10.95 and rising to £29.95 for a Chateauneuf du Pape 2004 and £38 for a Meursault 2004. Commendably, five whites, four reds and a rose are available by the 175ml glass (£2.95-£4). If you are determined to flash the cash, look to the champagne list which ranges from Rodier Pere et Fils Brut at £24.95 to Dom Perignon at £120. A bottle of Carmen Rose (Chile 2007) arrives properly chilled, and is dry and subtle with delicious hints of fruit; good value at £14.95.
Fittingly, the three bottled beers are Singha, Tiger and Tsing Tao, all £3 for 330 or 335 ml. To round off your meal, there are cognacs and a calvados, plus an impressive selection of whiskies (including Irish whiskeys) all from £3.50 to £7.50 a tot, or you may prefer a liqueur coffee (£4). If you’re looking for a non-alcoholic finale, teas include jasmine, camomile, peppermint and green (£1.50), and there’s espresso, cappuccino, macchiato, latte and filter coffee (£1.75-£2.50).
The Last Word
The decline of Thai Silk was a considerable blow to Kennington Cross, so it’s a joy to see it renamed, reinvigorated and perhaps better than it ever was. In China, the Ming Dynasty lasted nearly 300 years: in Kennington, if Thai Ming continues to smilingly serve hearty portions of well-judged classics in an attractive modern setting, who’s to say it can’t beat that record?
Thai Ming has been reviewed by 6 users