Thaitanic may have a disastrous name, but this friendly Thai restaurant thankfully shows little sign of sinking.

The Venue
Sister restaurant to the popular Thai Corner in Highbury, Thaitanic occupies a prime spot in central Crouch End, close to pubs, bars and transport. Unassuming from the outside, the restaurant is clean and bright, with artful pictures of Thailand’s gorgeous beaches and temples setting the scene. The main dining room can easily accommodate large groups, and tables for two in the front section by the bar are carefully arranged to create a sense of space and privacy. The restaurant has a slightly functional feel – it is the food rather than the venue that is exciting here.

The Atmosphere
Thaitanic has an informal atmosphere and staff sporting Thai dress are efficient and friendly. Menus and drinks are quickly brought and a choice of seating is offered if available. The restaurant is at its best at weekends when there is a busy hum of chatter, as groups of twenty-something friends mix in with older local couples.

The Food
An extensive menu of dishes showcases modern and traditional Thai cuisine incorporating other Asian influences. Portions are generous in both size and spice. Mixed starters include prawn toast, dim sum, fish cakes, wan ton and more, but all those deep fried treats can be a little greasy and heavy for an appetiser. Instead order the chicken satay for dipping in a ballsy peanut sauce, or a plate of fish cakes with piquant peanut and cucumber vinaigrette (both priced at about a fiver). Tom yum soup, afloat with juicy prawns, combines the delicate citrus flavours of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves with a bite of chilli and fresh coriander.

Seafood is a speciality of the house and there is a marvellous selection: Ocean Boat is a luxurious mixture of scallops, mussels, king prawns and squid, stir fried with aromatic green peppercorns and holy basil, garlic, fresh green chillies and bamboo shoots; Pla Rad Prik is a whole, boneless fish (usually seabass) wrapped in a perfectly crisp, spiced batter and topped with sweet and mild chilli sauce. Yum Neau is an extremely authentic grilled sirloin steak salad, dressed with chillies, shallots, lime juice and fish sauce, which buzzes with flavour. If you prefer a milder taste, ask for less chilli – it comes much hotter than the medium heat that the menu suggests and can be pretty fiery. Main courses don’t top the ten pounds mark; an essential bowl of sticky coconut rice costs extra.

The Drink
Bottled Asian beers are the ideal partner, but there is a decent new world wine list, with plenty to choose for under twenty pounds. Cocktails such as Pina Colada embrace tropical fruits and the Thai love of coconut milk.

The Last Word
Thaitanic’s considerably better than average Thai cuisine and good service make it a great local restaurant.

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