The Alma

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 9 reviews

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59 Newington Green Road,
Islington,
London,
N1 4QU

0872 148 1239
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byNina Smetek11/05/2010
The Alma is a gastro pub with a twist. There’s not a bowl of stale bar nuts in sight, instead candy lollies and home-baked treats adorn the bar and homesick Kiwis can even find goodies imported all the way from the Motherland. Situated in N1, The Alma is friendly and relaxed and the food helps you realise that this is no ordinary boozer.

The Venue
On arrival, your first impression is that the exterior could do with a lick of paint but, once inside, it kind of makes sense as rustic-traditional snuggles up nicely with Parisian boho, which basically means you can expect to see a mixture of reclaimed furniture, candles, rouge walls, huge bay windows and a small private courtyard garden. The usual suspects - fairy lights and the odd disco ball - do make an appearance, but these minor details are all part and parcel of being on the cusp of trendier parts of East London. The Alma has a sizeable dining area, serving lunch from 12.30-3pm, Thursday-Friday, and 12.30pm-4pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Evening sittings run from 7pm everyday. They also offer a take-away service and cater for corporate and offsite functions. During the summer months, you can even pre-order a picnic for the local park.

The Atmosphere
The Alma predominantly attracts a refined N1 set, who can be seen at weekends armed with the day’s papers and a bottle of red. In the evenings, a livelier bunch of twenty to thirtysomethings tend to takeover and they’re keen to catch up over a few pints with their chums. The bar staff can be a little reserved, but they’re polite and not at all unpleasant. With its connections to New Zealand, it is obvious they offer a little home-from-home in the form of a tuck shop behind the bar. This is made up of around 25 imported products and it is the equivalent of being able to get Walkers crisps and Heinz beans for a British ex-pat. This personal touch contributes to The Alma’s quirkiness and offers a unique talking point.

The Food
Evening service begins at 7pm, at this time the bar staff hand out copies of the menu, which changes on a regular basis. The menu itself is fairly short, offering four or so starters, six main courses and three or four desserts. Despite the limited amount of options the chef has obviously carefully thought about catering for everyone, so it is unlikely you won’t find something you fancy. From the more traditional chicken liver pate with red onion marmalade, pickles and grilled bread to something with a Mediterranean influence, such as the fettucini in rich tomato sauce, there’s a good selection on offer.

Once seated, you are offered complimentary fresh bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar in a dipping bowl. The bread is typically Sardinian in flavour and texture, soft, salty and moreish. Whilst individual starters hover around the £6 mark, you can opt for a tapas plate to share at £10, which is easily sufficient in size for two. The plate arrives loaded with olives, Milanese salami, oak smoked ham, paprika potato cakes, halloumi, houmous, tzatziki and a dressed salad. Also on the plate are braised mushrooms and garlic and herb tomato. Aside from the latter, perhaps unnecessary additions, the dish is well presented and all the ingredients are good quality and fresh.

For main course, the char-grilled beef onglette, green beans, remoulade and sauteed blue potatoes with a red wine jus costs £15.50. Unlike many other venues, where price-inflating sides are required, the portion is exceedingly generous to the point of being too large for smaller appetites, especially after such a filling starter, but the beef is tender and cooked by the book - slightly pink in the middle and full of flavour. The beans are squeaky and fresh, while the blue potatoes offer an earthy grounding to a rich dish. Overall it is a successful dish. Alternatively, a pan roasted salmon fillet with creamed leeks and crushed new potatoes is priced at £13.50. Again, it is a very generous portion, well presented, and the fish and leeks are cooked perfectly allowing the flavours to complement each other. Main courses start at £10.50, but to its credit, the portions are large, so you probably won’t require any extras on top of your main dish. If you do, side dishes of mixed leaves, vegetables and potatoes are available for £3.50.

Desserts include a white chocolate brownie with mixed berry coulis and a fresh berries and meringue with whipped cream and rhubarb compote. The brownie is tasty and not too sweet, while the meringue is a little too tough and sticky to tackle with one spoon alone. All of the fruit used is ripe and seasonal. Should you not want something sweet to finish, you can opt for a cheese course £7-£7.50, a plate that plays host to varieties like Beenleigh Blue, Keen Cheddar and Ticklemore. The trio of cheese is served with grapes, oat cakes and chutney. All other desserts are priced at £5.50 and a special dessert wine list is available should you so wish for an extra tipple to see you through to the end of the night.

The Drink
The Alma offers a substantial selection of spirits starting at around £3 per measure and the usual draught beers are available, including Hoegaarden, Heineken, Guinness and the house ale Flowers. Addlestones cloudy cider is another notable inclusion. Pints cost between £3.40-£4.40. The wine list is decent, with wines from France, Spain, Italy, Argentina, New Zealand and South Africa. A bottle of house wine, red or white, will set you back £13.50 per bottle or £3.50 for a 175ml glass. The house red, an Italian Il Sogno Sangiovese, is full bodied yet smooth and very easy to drink. There are also sparkling wines and Champagnes available from £26. To further place your trust in the Kiwi management, you can try the Hunters Miru Miru from New Zealand, for £6.75 a 175ml glass.

The Last Word
The Alma’s ever growing popularity is down to its comfortable atmosphere and delightful character. It may be a little rough around the edges, but overall The Alma is a very good all-rounder and, if you're a Kiwi, it offers a taste of home.
The Alma has been reviewed by 9 users

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