You might well expect the Amphitheatre Restaurant to be somewhat stuffy bearing in mind its location on the top floor of the Royal Opera House. Quite on the contrary, what greets you is a pleasant, well-presented eaterie which has managed to find just the right balance of comfortable formality. The food reflects the restaurant’s tone; a place to go for a little treat without blowing the bank account.

The Venue
Getting to the restaurant involves going through the main entrance to the Royal Opera House and then up a long escalator to the top floor, which serves to lend an air of excitement of the meal to come. On the right at the top is a gem of a restaurant with perfect views over the Covent Garden Piazza and that extends further over the London skyline. In the summer, you can imagine diners relaxing on the spacious veranda lined with bay trees, drinking in the atmosphere of Covent Garden below.

The Atmosphere
It is testament to the restaurant’s universal appeal that it is quite hard to categorise its clientele neatly into one bracket. Tables of twenty-somethings dine quite happily next to tables of baby boomers, with neither party feeling out of place. This might in part be due to the well organised and attentive service and in part due to the décor, a modern take on 50s glamour. Customers sit on velvet covered banquettes and are able to gaze at other diners in the mirrors that line the walls. The atmosphere feels decadent yet at the same time not overdone.

The Food
The restaurant is best known for serving the first two courses before a performance, with diners returning in the interval for dessert and coffee. However, lunch in the restaurant is an equally enjoyable experience. There is both an a la carte and set menu option (2 courses for £16.50 and 3 courses £21.50). The presentation throughout is without fault: high class yet unfussy. Three dishes change on the menu per month, allowing variety whilst still permitting the regular diner to find at least one of their favourite dishes. Portions are ample but not overgenerous. Those who arrive especially hungry might find themselves needing three courses to sate their appetite properly.

Starters of seared scallops with cauliflower veloute with a chorizo crisp and herb salad and sliced Bayonne ham, roasted red peppers, feta cheese and artichoke with olives are simple and perfectly cooked. The scallops in particular are simply delicious and the chorizo crisp adds a welcome spicy flavour which sets off the gentle flavour of the scallops beautifully.

Mains of grilled sea bass, roasted crusted new potatoes and dill tomato salsa and supreme of Scottish salmon, julienne of citrus vegetables with a red pepper dressing are equally impressive. The sea bass, which comes rolled up, has a real melt in the mouth quality and the dish feels well balanced, light yet nourishing. However, the herb salad from the starter finds its way onto the plate again, which feels somewhat unnecessary given all the other textures, colours and flavours. The salmon is perfectly cooked and full of flavour, although the vegetables are lacking in the promised citrus tang.

Desserts of rosemary apricot tart tatin, saffron syrup and ginger ice cream and pear cassis crumble with coconut anglaise are the meal’s crowning glory. The tart tatin is a favourite amongst regulars and it’s easy to see why. Sweet but not too rich, gooey, juicy apricots give way to a light pastry base. The coconut anglaise that accompanies the crumble is also to die for and provided a smooth, luxurious alternative to fresh cream.

The Drink
The wines are surprisingly reasonably priced. The house Royal Opera House Sauvignon Blanc (Chile 2006) is a dry fruity treat of a wine with a gooseberry aftertaste. The fresh orange juice is also particularly good, with a sharp taste that really refreshes.

The Last Word
The Amphitheatre restaurant provides delicious, well-presented food at affordable prices in a fabulous setting. Request a seat near the window or sit on the veranda to soak in the cityscape at its best.

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