376-379 Cranbook Road,
Gants Hill,
London,
IG2 6HW
(020) 8554 1121
The ViewLondon Review
Great Greek grub in suburban Essex.
The Venue
Situated in a long parade of bars and restaurants on the broad thoroughfare of Cranbrook Road, The Apollonia is technically in Essex, but very much part of the London conurbation - it’s a stone’s throw from Gants Hill station on the Central Line. And it might be a good idea to arrive that way, as parking isn’t easy in these parts.
The Atmosphere
The Apollonia has an agreeable faux-Hellenic feel, with whitewashed walls and pillars, and taverna-style Greek music playing. Each table has a little glass, tulip bulb-shaped oil lamp. It’s much larger than your average Greek taverna, though, with a high ceiling and plenty of space between the tables. It’s large enough to use for functions and sees its fair share of office parties, wedding receptions and bar mitzvahs - as the keyboard and mike stand positioned by the wall testify.
The Food
Traditional, well-presented classic Greek dishes. A courtesy plate of lemon-scented olives and chillis is provided while you make up your mind. Starters are around £4.50 and all the old favourites are here: a mixed plate of taramasalata, houmous and tzatziki served with warm pitta bread is good - the dips have slightly too smooth a consistency, but are nicely spiked with a drizzle of chilli oil. More unusual is tirokafteri - soft goat’s cheese with chilli, served with crunchy bread sticks. Also recommended is the loucanika, grilled slices of rich spicy Greek sausage.
Mains include reliable standbys such as moussaka, dolmades and beef stifado at around £11. A lamb kleftiko comes up as an amazingly hefty chunk of lamb, meltingly tender, garnished with coriander and served with roast potatoes and salad. On the fish front, grilled swordfish marinated in lemon and herbs is good value at £13, served on a bed of flavoursome veg - spinach, cauliflower and asparagus. Desserts stick to the values of simplicity, clean flavours and generous portions. A bowl of Greek yoghurt and honey is light and refreshing, the hint of sharpness in the yoghurt offsetting the intense sweetness of the honey. A simple plate of cut fresh fruit is large and impressive enough to grace a pop star’s dressing room: great fat luscious purple grapes, slices of melon, orange, apple and strawberry.
The Drink
The wine-list is conveniently divided into House (up to around £13), Quality (up to around £17), and Fine wines (up to £22). For this sort of hearty food, though, house wine is a friendly companion, just as you’d drink on holiday on a Greek island. A bottle of Aphrodite, a white table wine at £12, is smooth and refreshing. Retsina, of course, is available, for those who want to relive those holiday hangovers. Stella and Becks are on draft.
The Last Word
Unpretentious and simple, but The Apollonia is very good at what it does. If you like Greek food, this is the genuine article.
The Apollonia has been reviewed by 11 users