A compact local pub on North End Road, The Barrow Boy dishes up very respectable food in homely surroundings.

The Venue
Across the road from The Barrow Boy there’s an offy called Hair Of The Dog and streetwise kids are in and out of Maccy D’s on the corner nearest to this spruced up boozer, but The Barrow Boy has bigger aspirations than its neighbours. The ground floor has an intimate feel to it; there’s a dining room wooden cabinet in one corner, stripy fabric cushioned seats in another and a pale green hue to the walls. Upstairs, somewhat surprisingly for the location on this claustrophobic little stretch, there’s a roof terrace that can hold an additional 60 guests.

The Atmosphere
Given that it sits in-between tube stations (Fulham Broadway and West Brompton), The Barrow Boy doesn’t benefit from the transient flux of human traffic passing through a nearby station - but this is no bad thing. Locals prop up the bar after a day grafting on a construction site and couples with their grown-up kids pop in for the evening. Service is, on the whole, warm and efficient.

The Food
Prices are reasonable, portions substantial and quality respectable. It might not have the starry quality of the nearby Michelin-endorsed Harwood Arms, but it is enjoyable nonetheless.

A huge pile of incredibly soft calamari (just under £6) starts the sitting off on a very positive note. The crisp coating tastes like it’s got some paprika in the mix, giving it a little extra pep. It’s served with a sweet chilli dip and a well-dressed bed of salad leaves. Mains include a sirloin steak (around £14) that has a charred, almost barbecued coating. It might be slightly overcooked but the meat remains succulent and supple. A big bowl of stumpy fries accompanies the steak and these are seasoned to give them a herby southern fried flavour. Whilst the stunted fries won’t please those who like chunky chips or traditional fries, they do work in tandem with the steak. A pot of mustard aioli is on hand to add some extra flavour. Alternatively, a Thai-style squid with glass noodles is highly commendable and of better quality than some restaurants dish up.

Puddings don’t offer much in the way of quantity but they are, again, decent. A chocolate fondant is cocoa-rich, hot and gooey in all the right places, and a bargain at just shy of £4.

The Drink
A solid selection of beers and wine are supplemented by an extensive cocktail list. Wines start at £3.55 per glass/£13.50 per bottle, with finer tipples levelling out around £30. A top pick from the red list is the Redfin Shiraz/Cab Sauvignon blend from Australia. At £19.50 a bottle, it’s a powerful blast of ripe, joyous fruit with an invigorating spicy thwack.

The Last Word
An honest modernised pub with good quality food, the Barrow Boy is well worth trying out for those who live nearby – it certainly beats the immediate alternative of a couple of tins of beer and a cheap burger.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (16) what's on