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The Londoner's Guide to London
07 October 2008
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The Bevis Marks Restaurant

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Bevis Marks,
London,
EC3A 5DQ

0872 148 0856 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review bySimon Lazarus31/12/2007
With an official blessing from the Sephardi Kashrut Authority, Bevis Marks brings its own dose of modern Kosher cooking to the heart of the City.

The Venue
Located near Dukes Place and close to both Aldgate and Liverpool Street tube stations, Bevis Marks is in the hub of city life. It’s also within close proximity of the oldest synagogue in Britain of the same name, with recent visitors including former Prime Minister Tony Blair. Inside a smart outlay greets you with smart upright chairs and even smarter tables. This place has a certain airy and light feel with abstract paintings adorning the walls and with an electric roof which opens out onto a pretty conservatory to boot. Bevis Marks certainly strikes all the modern chords with religious and non religious diners.

The Atmosphere
Rub shoulders with the young and trendy city folk accompanied by their even trendier dates. There are also some friendly religious people of the establishment that dine here for a good fress up - they can spot a good a latke at a hundred paces.

The Food
The kosher fare served up would make any rabbi proud. For starters the traditional Jewish “penicillin” of chicken soup with matzo balls is really fantastic and flavourful. Another classic is the chopped liver, a rich, smooth and well pate well seasoned and complemented by an unusual fig compote which is sweet and sticky.

For mains the Moroccan duck confit is full of spices and served with lemon couscous, piquillo & saffron salsa. The duck is soft and not tough with the couscous bringing a North African influence to the dish. Meanwhile the roast rack of lamb with Savoy cabbage and carrot puree is good but slightly overpriced at £21 - the blackcurrant sauce is worth a mention and perfectly combines the flavours of the meat. As a side it would be criminal to not try their homemade latkes, succulent and crisp fried potato cakes succulent and crisp.

To conclude why not try the apricot tarte tatin which is crisp and beautifully caramalised; you can see the juices run down the pastry when you bite into it. The basil ice cream is unusual but very subtle with some crunchy toasted pine nuts, whilst the chocolate millefeuille has generous layers and comes with a raspberry coulis and a fragrant lavender ice cream.

The Drink
You would think that a kosher venue could not muster up a decent wine list but there are some wild cards amongst the pack which include a few decent reds from Yarden in Israel. The Cabernet Sauvignon is full of body and has currant and plum aromas with a subtle finish of vanilla. Another kosher wine is the Californian Baron Herzog Zinfandel 2003 with an oak bouquet and plum and berry aromas with a distinct hint of violet. Be prepared to pay in excess of £30 for a decent bottle.

The Last Word
If you want an altogether different cultural dining experience then head to Bevis Marks but do remember to take your wallet as dishes here are not in the cheap category.
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