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The Londoner's Guide to London
07 July 2008
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The Botanist

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No 7 Sloane Square,
Chelsea,
London,
SW1W 8EE

(020) 7730 0077 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMark O'Donnell16/05/2008
New West London restaurant from the people behind London success stories like The Gun and Empress Of India. Their latest venture, The Botanist, is a class act.

The Venue
In a prime position on the corner of London’s exclusive Sloane Square, this venue will undoubtedly be a hit with the affluent Chelsea and King’s Road set. With Sloane Square tube a hop, a skip and a jump away from the venue's front doors, it’s easy to get to and it won’t be long before word spreads and people travel from all corners of London to see what all the fuss is about.

On entry the bar is the first port of call on the left hand side. Due to the volume of people the high chairs and low-down tables with seats for groups are in short supply. The main action in the restaurant is found through an opening to the right where the venue really demonstrates its best qualities. Three sparkling, bangle-shaped chandeliers give an alluring glow while the cream leather seats give the space a clean and elegant flow.

By far the most impressive feature is the wall of illustrations in honour of the restaurants inspiration, Sir Hans Sloane. The hand drawn artwork benefits from discreet lighting and refer to Sloane’s pioneering work in the Caribbean, which saw him uncover a world of new species. This is something the venue presents in a beautiful and intoxicating fashion. The figures of snakes, butterflies, crabs and exotic flowers make heads turn and they are reason enough to pay a visit.

The Atmosphere
Vibrant, loud and upbeat, The Botanist scores top marks for a really sociable and jovial atmosphere. The people are a mixture of sharp suits, groups of friends and families out for the evening. The age range leans towards the mature end.

The Food
The menu is a packed full of mouthwatering offerings. For starters: the handmade linguine, crayfish, garlic, chilli, capers and lemon oil (£7.50) is the perfect example of pasta cooked al dente. Every mouthful a different flavour comes to the forefront: first the garlic and then the sharp lemon and caper, while the chilli plays the support role in subtle fashion. An individual portion of the Cornish crab and avocado ravioli is served on a tomato and chilli liquid base and is a solid if unspectacular dish at £8.

Other options include pan fried scallops with curried apple, potato puree, golden raisin and caper beurre noisette at £9 and the equally attractive English asparagus (£8) that comes with a wicked hot butter drizzle.

Onto the mains and the Chateaubriand with wild mushroom gratin, fondant potatoes, spinach and Madeira jus is very popular with the patrons and is served on a wooden communal platter. One of the highlights is undoubtedly the lemon sole which comes whole and is cooked to absolute perfection. It’s delicate and moreish and it comes with buttery Jersey Royal potatoes that are firm in texture. The roast lamb neck, braised shoulder and haricot bean cassoulet comes with caramelised sweet bread ravioli, baby vegetables and chardonnay vinegar. The lamb melts in your mouth but the myriad of contrasting flavours scream for your attention in a way that’s a tad over elaborate.

If there’s room for dessert (£5 each) the soft centred chocolate pudding is moist and warm and comes with a viscous centre that is to die for. Another great option is the whisky creme brulee that has a perfect contrast of crunchy surface and soft cream centre.

The Drink
The drinks menu at The Botanist is carefully curated. Recommended is the Thymeless Sour (£7.50) which combines Zubrowska bison vodka, fresh ginger and lime. It’s a long drink, perfect to slurp and has a fresh sprig of thyme for company. The texture is creamy and luxurious and the sour is surprisingly tempered by a sweet tang. Champagne cocktails include the trademark Sloane No.7 fuse Plymouth sloe and damson gin, with fresh blueberries and Joseph Perrier Champagne (£9).

Wine is of the classic French variety and the house red (Cuvee Freres Martin) is priced at the exceedingly reasonable £15 a bottle. It’s a young and zesty number that is easy on the palate and word has it that the owner went to hand press this wine, which shows just how much passion has gone into this business. Rather than rest on their laurels they plan to introduce wines from Brazil and Greece in the future. They also specialise in fine clarets that are aimed at the connoisseur and range from £150 to an extravagant £325.

The Last Word
The Botanist is a splendid new venue that manages to strike the right balance between stunning design features, great service and quality food and drink. Go while you can still get in the front door.
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