The Britannia may tout itself as something of a gastropub but it’s actually a pretty darn good boozer as well. Hallelujah! It is possible, then.

The Venue
The Britannia was a victim of the recession and closed in 2009 – not much of a loss as it used to be rough around the edges. Fast forward two years and it has reopened with a makeover that, thankfully, hasn’t left it bereft of charm.

This looks like a proper pub from the outset, with its cute black and white frontage complete with period windows and pretty flower baskets. Inside, it’s not had quite the neutral, heartless transformation of many gastropubs. Instead, the heavy wooden bar still acts as the centrepiece to the room and the neutral cream walls are enlivened by flashes of dark reds (including a red ceiling) and granny lamps. The ‘dining tables’ if you can call them that are really just your typical wooden pub tables just with little candles and menus placed on them – and you can sit down if you’re just drinking. They finish it all off with a great outdoor space and large function room.

The Atmosphere
The Britannia isn’t one of those pubs that focuses so hard on its food that it forgets about its drinkers and makes them feel like second-class citizens – quite the opposite. This is a pub that attracts its fair share of locals just out to enjoy a pint and shares the space amicably between foodies and beer lovers. Throw in the fantastic outdoor space that fills to bursting in the summer months and you’ve got the recipe for one great little all-rounder. It’s made all the more impressive to know that it was once forced to close.

The Food
Of course, no gastropub worth its salt wouldn’t serve oysters – and you can buy oysters here, exactly what kind is governed by what’s in season and available. And that’s a theme that runs throughout their menu. They change things up regularly and go with what ingredients are fresh and good quality. It’s not overly fancy but isn’t just your bog-standard pub grub, either. Think potted rabbit, smoked duck, calves liver and parma ham… And the prices? Pretty good – you can easily eat here for a tenner a head and given the quality of the ingredients they use, that’s pretty impressive.

The Drink
The wine list at The Britannia is above-average for a pub with a half-dozen reds and as many whites to choose from, starting at around £15 a bottle. As well as a decent choice of draught lager, they also offer three cask ales here, including Fuller's beers and Timothy Taylor Landlord, which is good to see given the gastro route they’ve gone.

The Last Word
A big thumbs up to a pub that’s reopened despite the economy not having quite recovered yet.

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