Once the recipient of not one but two coveted Michelin stars, The Capital Restaurant in Knightsbridge may have subsequently lost its starry status, but it continues to advocate fine dining and classic French cooking from its location near Harrods.

The Venue
The Capital Restaurant, now directed by the very capable hands of executive chef Jérôme Ponchelle, is very much pitched at the top-end and, as a result, a trip here is one that should mark a special occasion - unless you’re absolutely loaded.

The dining room itself is remarkably unremarkable. It is decked out in pale wood-panelling and it’s intimate – there’s room for around 25 diners tops. Starchy white tablecloths and black and white art prints on the wall are docile, but swish light features and mirrored wall panels positioned towards the ceiling give a touch of Art Deco to proceedings.

The Atmosphere
When the dining room is quiet, there’s a self-conscious air which makes it all a little stiff; as the room fills out and patrons’ banter fills the air, things loosen up considerably. The Italian restaurant manager has unquestionable pedigree at the likes of The Connaught, and his jolly but highly professional gravitas is admirable. The age range of diners is predictably on the mature side, and there are more polished American accents in attendance than your average dining room.

The Food
A degustation menu taking in several courses is available at £70, a price that puts it on a par with London’s foremost fine dining experiences. Add a glass of wine with each dish and this balloons to a mind-blowing £120 per person. For those not claiming back a work-related bonus, the a la carte offers the chance to just order as much as you want (or afford). A duck foie gras ravioli starter is groan-inducingly good. The pasta is delicate and dainty; the filling smooth and rich; and the inclusion of shredded leek and a frothy buttery truffle foam is a masterstroke. An incredible plate – with an incredible price tag of £18 - which compares favourably to the very best the capital has to offer. Alternatively, scallops served with diced chorizo, lentils and a mild sauce (described as curry) is enjoyable if outclassed by the ravioli.

Mains include seasonal rarities like the roast grouse. Ordering this dish also gives you an extra sense of theatre as the grouse is presented on a trolley and carved at the table. The portion size is substantial; you’re presented with the whole carved bird. Although, there’s only a tart red cabbage, a meaty jus and little service pots of breadcrumbs and bread sauce as accompaniment, even at £26 this delicate, gamey bird is worth trying, at least once. Less of a fuss is made over the service of the fillet of lamb with olive gnocchi, fennel and lemon thyme sauce (£23) but, again, standards are high. Petits fours are served before desserts (all £12), which include a very popular chocolate mousse and more experimental creations that combine exotic fruit with star anise and turmeric.

The Drink
The wine list is a global collection of premium wines, and you will even find the hotel’s owner Daniel Levin’s own wine shipped in from France. For the full Monty, allow the sommelier to pair each course with a glass of wine. This way you might start off with an enlivening Vincent Giradin Puligny-Montrachet from Burgundy, head south to Australia for a ripe and powerful Eden Valley Syrah, before finishing off with a concentrated (served-chilled) Shiraz dessert wine.

The Last Word
With the likes of celebrated chefs Pierre Koffmann and Daniel Boloud having taking up residencies at Knightsbridge hotels, and Heston Blumenthal to follow, competition has never been more magnified in this part of town. Commendably, Capital Restaurant is sticking to its guns, and if you do decide to pay a visit, you will find some memorable dishes and fine wines in muted surroundings.

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