Theatre-goers, tourists, civil servants and locals eat and drink side by side in this historical venue well known to literary greats such as George Bernard Shaw, TS Eliot, Sir John Betjeman, Iris Murdoch, Richard Hughes and Ian Fleming. This is a genuine English pub, smack bang in the heart of Whitehall, with centuries of faith in its woodwork and King William IV to thank for its name.

The Venue
Ideally located between Trafalgar Square and the Houses of Parliament, this grand old pub, dating back to the nineteenth century, offers a lively and spacious setting suitable for vibrant social gatherings or refreshment stops between Nelson’s Column and Churchill’s statue. There is plenty of seating and standing room inside and the sober, wooden interior and large windows keep everything light and attractive. Upstairs is the Pol Roger restaurant (after Winston Churchill’s favourite Champagne) which represents the ongoing challenge faced by The Clarence: which group of people should it target? The tourist or the local? Thankfully the range of food and wine goes a long way to reconciling both.

The Atmosphere
All age groups relax in the easy comfort of The Clarence and while young couples smooch, tourists pour over maps and locals grapple with a crossword. It all works very well and is helped along by friendly, helpful staff. Do not expect to see cue-wielding football fans pumping coins into slot machines because the customer profile and ambience is quite the opposite.

Creaky floorboards and winding staircases soak up a cultured selection of jazz and modern music and the lively chatter of the pub’s clientele ensures a buoyant, robust energy. Large Dickensian windows offer a glimpse of classic London life where taxi, bus and post box vie for prominence. The hustle and bustle outside offers a stark contrast to the easy comfort within and there is a charming warmth generated from the knowledge that people have been meeting up in The Clarence for over 150 years. There is a feeling of belonging and a sense that people are here because of what the Clarence offers rather than a stepping stone to somewhere else.

The Food
The Clarence provides wholesome favourites such as lamb stew, cured gammon, Scottish salmon, and steak and kidney pudding, which are cooked to order and well presented on wooden chopping boards. Piping hot, fresh and filling are what defines most dishes and the abundance of orders throughout the pub suggests the average price of £10 for a main dish is not a barrier. However, The Clarence should be careful not to allow its pub food to be charged at restaurant prices.

Fish and chips (£10.99) remain the lunchtime favourite and the beer battered cod generously fills the plate which eclipses the impact of the accompanying chips and peas. The chips are served with their potato skins intact which will doubtless divide people but this is a big dish for a big appetite.

The specials board details such favourites as cottage pie (£10.00) which offers a fine combination of beefy mince and fluffy mashed potato with a healthy stack of roasted vegetables expertly arranged on the side. The chef clearly cares. The generous portions are crowd-pleasing and filling but don’t be deterred from getting stuck into the dessert list. Amongst the ice cream and apple pie is a home made rice pudding (£5) which is warm and creamy and perfectly accompanied by a berry compote. It is an absolute triumph and well worth missing the curtain call at the Trafalgar Studios (formerly the Whitehall Theatre) opposite.

The Drink
The range of wine is thoughtfully broad and descriptions such as ‘Elegant Cool Whites’ and ‘Warm Hearted Reds’ make it easier to navigate. The price range chimes between £15-£25 and there is always a bottle of 1998 Pol Roger at £140 for those with loftier ambitions. California, Australia, France and Italy are well represented so feel free to drink your way around the world.

The house red, Lerane Grenache/Merlot from Pays D’oc, delivered on its £13.90 price tag and elbowed its way into the meal’s limelight.

The Clarence caters for both the discerning and casual drinker. There is a selection of guest ales available (Sharp Ales and Sambrooks Wandel) as well as the popular lagers, Staropramen, Leffe, Carlsberg, Becks and Stella. It is also noticeable that Flowers bitter enjoys a good following. Pints start from £3.20.

The Last Word
The Clarence radiates with London’s energy and possesses layers and layers of history. It works hard to satisfy all tastes and, thankfully, remains true to the notion of a pub as a forum to eat, drink, think and be merry. Its perfect location ensures that each customer can feel the weight of London’s charm. Don’t be surprised if a quick pint turns into a very enjoyable evening indeed.

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