The Colony Club Restaurant has an of air exclusivity that’s aimed at groups of businessmen who want to impress their clients or colleagues. It ticks boxes with its fine dining, casino and bar areas, but it lacks any real charm or character, if that’s what you’re looking for.

The Venue
Located in high-end Mayfair, there’s already a certain expectation for this restaurant in terms of service, menu and clientele. It’s surrounded by attractive houses, expensive restaurants and Green Park, which makes for a nice stroll before or after dinner in the warmer months. You’ll have to sign in before you even enter the restaurant, adding to that exclusive feel. Inside, it looks a lot like an expensive cruise ship or airport lounge with patterned padded chairs, colourful silk cushions, crisp white table cloths and flowers on every table. This look can seem high end to some, or a little dated to others.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere is much improved when the restaurant is busier as you can enjoy the buzz of friendly chatter, otherwise it can seem a little quiet. However, the (well-dressed) service is extremely helpful, polite and friendly, ready with recommendations or any assistance that you need.

The Food
Every table is brought a basket of crudités, including radishes, cherry tomatoes, carrots with their tops still on and slightly tired-looking lettuce - served with a creamy mustard mayonnaise. Once you’ve ordered, you’ll then receive a basket of warm breads, including a salty olive bread and cheesy dough sticks.

You’ll be spoilt for choice with four different menus to choose from, so expect European, Oriental, Middle Eastern and Asian and Teppanyaki (Japanese). To start, the European menu is full of great classics (£6-£18), such as sauteed foie gras with wilted chicory and an orange dressing with soaked raisins. The foie gras is cooked perfectly and the tangy orange sauce complements it well. A lobster bisque has a creamy tomato flavour, although it could be improved with larger chunks of lobster for a stronger flavour.

Across the other menus, you’ll find things like crispy duck or sea bass noodle soup, Thai omelette with fresh crab meat, spicy seafood soup, or edamame and miso soups (all £5-£18). For main, European classics continue (around £20) with grilled veal cutlets, rosemary jus and gaufrette potatoes. The veal is slightly fatty which makes for a chewy (if flavoursome) meat but the herby jus and wafer thin potato crisps certainly make tasty accompaniments. Or there’s the rump of lamb, cocotte potatoes, broad beans and a light lemon thyme jus, with meat that has a tender texture and great flavour. Vegetables are also served to share.

Other options include salt and pepper crab or sweet and sour chicken, panang chicken or beef rendang, fresh sashimi or scallops with a lemon miso sauce (£10 - £54 for a big sharing platter). There are vegetarian options with each menu, and if you’re a fan of fish then you’ll be very happy indeed.

Desserts comprise ice creams, sorbets, a cheese board and traditional puddings. Creme brulee (hard to get just right) served with a lemon shortbread is a little too heavy in texture and the top may arrive a little too flambeed, giving the topping too much of a bitter, burnt taste. The white chocolate chip cheesecake isn’t too sweet (as can happen with white chocolate), instead being deliciously light and creamy.

The Drink
You’ll be presented with a traditional cocktail list, as well as a weighty premium wine book which may take some time to leaf through. Pick white or red depending on your choice of dishes and if you struggle to choose, a helpful waiter will be able to recommend you a wine to suit your meal. There are plenty of vintage wines, light or full bodied as you prefer - and if you know your wine, then you’ll certainly enjoy choosing.

The Last Word
With its extensive wine list and choice of four menus, this restaurant seems to be about feeding colleagues or friends before the entertainment begins in the bar or casino. However, as simply a dinner destination amongst Mayfair’s finest, it slightly falters behind its high-end image.

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