The Commander is a smart 'porterhouse and oyster bar' in deepest Notting Hillshire, attempting to attract custom from the whole community of affluent locals. So, it’s a restaurant, bar, neighbourhood meeting place, family hang out and seafood emporium. If that sounds confused, it’s not and it seems to work remarkably well.

The Venue
Within one large space, a few distinct areas have been created, which link together to make an attractive environment: a handsome long bar with stools; high-backed booth seats along the windows at the front; an arrangement of comfy leather armchairs; a further wooden bar area with stools; a more formal dining area near the open-plan kitchen with long windows overlooking the garden; and a neat terrace with teak seating, privet hedges and jade plants on the tables. Oh, and party rooms upstairs for both adults and children. A jazzy tiled floor, good use of natural light, generous helpings of handsome dark wood, and flickering tea lights help to create a cosy ambience.

The Atmosphere
Having been up and running for nearly three years, the Commander seems to have found its feet. Clientele could include a couple sipping cocktails alongside their sleeping baby; a group of office workers nursing beers after a day at the office; several couples choosing from the a la carte menu in the dining area and a group of friends in the booths sharing some seafood. Music is unobtrusive and noise levels reflect customers’ enjoyment. Staff are efficient and attentive.

The Food
The a la carte menu is refreshingly short, which shows a chef with confidence; eight starters and seven mains, with a few side dishes and nibbles. Regular punters will already know that the chef has daily specials available to keep the menu interesting for aficionados; and in any case it changes every couple of months or so to reflect seasonality.

Seafood is their forte, with up to eighteen varieties of oyster available. There are various sharing plates for any time grazing, such as the Italian tasting platter. For starters, gazpacho soup tastes more of onion than tomato, but is no less tasty for it, whilst pear with gorgonzola is served with green salad and thinly sliced kohlrabi, drizzled with a tart lemon house dressing that cleverly cuts through the richness of the cheese. Seared tuna sashimi is another success, served with a soy, shallot and ginger dressing.

Omit to order the rustic grilled breads at your peril; lightly brushed with olive oil and char-grilled, served with plump sweet roasted garlic cloves, they are exceedingly good. The signature home made burgers are attractively served, the fat chips standing to attention in their own decorative mini fryer; the steak on a board with its own knife. For something unusual, opt for the springbok medallions with orange and juniper hollandaise, sweet potato pommes Anna and wilted spinach.

Puddings are comfort food with a twist: the banoffee pie has mashed bananas and walnut pastry; the chocolate sundae has home made amaretto ice cream and amaretto biscuits. End on a high, with excellent Illy coffee.

The Drink
Twelve Champagnes from most of the famous houses are stocked, with five available by the glass. The red and white wine list is also comprehensive, with both starting at around £16. If you do wish to spend a little more, try a 2009 Sauvignon Blanc from Cloudy Bay, New Zealand at £50, or a Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 'Crossbarn' from Napa Valley at £70.

The Last Word
In an area well served by restaurants, the Commander manages to be convincingly different, offering quite a bit more than your usual Notting Hill affair.

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