If you are looking for a comfortably smart dinner near Charing Cross and value food over feel, it doesn't get much better than the Commonwealth Kitchen.

The Venue
The Commonwealth Kitchen used to be for members only, but is now opened up to mere mortals in the evening. It is, in fact, set within the Commonwealth Club near Trafalgar Square, and the location is convenient for a pre-theatre dinner as well as an evening stroll along the Thames. The dining room is set in a spacious hall on the ground floor of the Club, with stark lighting throughout and fashionably bare decor.

The Atmosphere
This minimal interior design doesn't quite play on the Commonwealth theme, nor does it help build an atmosphere. Overall it feels a bit like an office (there is even a computer room upstairs overlooking the dining room) and could definitely use some dimmed lights and more hospitable decor. The service mirrors all this, staff are very efficient but not particularly smiley, to the verge of actually looking disinterested in their clientele.

The Food
Head Chef Oliver Tobias has added a Commonwealth twist to a menu of modern European classics. The menus change monthly but the dishes are consistently superb: top quality ingredients expertly matched together in faultlessly executed dishes, and so beautifully presented that you'll probably hesitate to tuck in. The main menu offers a somewhat limited choice but allows you to taste original, uncomplicated food combinations; a complimentary amuse-bouche and delicately flavoured starters (such as Sussex asparagus with quail eggs and truffle vinaigrette) will lead you into appetising main courses such as the sea bream with Jesus de Lyon and couscous salad, or the organic lamb served with tea-smoked apricot and mint jus. The market menu is also an interesting option which offers good value for money.

The Drink
The drinks menu list does not live up to the quality of the food and is tilted too heavily toward champagne. The wine list is said to be drawn from the Commonwealth countries' wine heritage, but that's not quite the case, with the majority of bottles coming from Italy, France and Spain. They start at around £19 for a bottle of un-oaked cabernet or tempranillo.

The Last Word
The Commonwealth Kitchen is perfect for a business lunch, or if you are looking for a purely gastronomic experience, as it lacks the atmosphere for that special dinner. Which is a shame, as the food could be considered some of the best in town.

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