A troubled courtship that seeks to please all parties but ends up pleasing none.

The Venue
Wrapped around the top of the cylindrically-shaped King's Reading Room, this spacious, open area on the 6th floor of the British Museum has Sir Norman Foster's distinctive curved blue glass as its backdrop and the sun as its lamp. This is about as close as you can get to the magnificent glass dome of the Great Court without having to call in external reinforcements.

The restaurant is divided into two areas: the area closer to the bar (and entrance) is reserved for drinkers, afternoon tea goers and those seeking light meals, while the area nearer the kitchen, located at the opposite end, is designated for full course meal diners.

The Atmosphere
The airy and well-illuminated restaurant attempts to introduce intimacy by setting boundaries to its area; potted plants are used define sections, while a white, translucent canopy installation (which doubles up as a sunshade) downplays the amount of empty space between the tables and the glass ceiling. Unfortunately, the smart yet snug ambiance is undermined by inattentive service. The staff's lack of interest is evident and this nonchalant attitude does not rub off well with both their big (corporate) and little (children) clients.

The Food
In a bid to please its broad clientele, the Court's short menu covers a variety of Indian, Japanese, Chinese and French fares. There is also a separate menu for children (about £8.00), and on occasions, special menus are offered to coincide with exhibitions. With so many menus at hand, the kitchen is spread very thinly. Few resources are therefore left to perfect the food. As a result, the dishes are poorly-executed and made up of ingredients prepared too far ahead; by the time the crispy bacon, parmesan crisp and crispy pork were plated, they had lost their bite and turned tough and rubbery.

The Drink
From juices to teas (just under £3.00) to bottles like the Tattinger Brut Reserve, there is something for every age group and category.

The Last Word
As the only full-service restaurant at the British Museum, it is a shame its food does not live up to the magnificence of its location. The Court Restaurant needs to put their foot down and settle on a specific cuisine, if not menu. Until then, you'll be better off picnicking in the Great Court's family area.

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