Formerly under the domain of Marco Pierre White, the Criterion restaurant has shed its celebrity chef crown but still emerges triumphant.

The Venue
Despite its more than 130-year-old history, the Criterion was recently most well known for being part of Marco Pierre White’s restaurant group, White Star Line. They parted ways in early 2009, and after a short refurbishment the Criterion is keen to return to its statelier roots. The refurb has seen some small touches added, including new furniture, but loyal fans won’t be put off by any changes – it’s undoubtedly difficult to do much to a grade II listed building.

The architecture in the Criterion is remarkable, with vast, cathedral-like ceilings and marble walls. Everything seems to sparkle thanks to shining tiles on the walls, which glitter in the form of colourful mosaics. Despite its lofty height, the restaurant is warmed up by soft furnishings in jewel tones and the occasional long curtain. It is, quite simply, an immensely impressive room, ideal for everything from a date to an important business meeting.

The fact that the Criterion is, quite literally, on top of Piccadilly Circus makes it even more impressive. This area seems to cater only to tourists, with some of the nearest eateries being in the Trocadero and er, a donut shop. Entering the Criterion after traipsing around the area is like stepping back in time to a grander age, which is only fitting considering the restaurant first opened in 1873. Since then it’s played host to everyone from Winston Churchill to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and has also made an appearance in a scene from The Dark Knight.

The Atmosphere
The cushy seats muffle any echoes you might fear from such a large space and the tone is hushed, but not stuffy. Clientele are the expected well dressed businessmen along with a few lunch dates and the occasional stunned, open-mouthed tourist (you can tell by the jeans and trainers) who’s wandered in after a bout of sightseeing. Staff are warm and friendly – this is the kind of place where everyone stops and says hello to you as you head toward your table, and thanks you on your way out the door.

The Food
Head chef Matthew Foxon has created a menu that’s inventive, interesting and a little bit fun; it’s a welcome surprise in this kind of place to open up the menu and see that it’s not crammed with heavy, stodgy food. There are a variety of different dishes, mostly British with an occasional Mediterranean or Asian influence (including a sushi and sashimi platter for £15). Nearly all the mains are under £20, whilst the most expensive starter hovers at £12. This is definitely not the place for a cheap meal, but then again you wouldn’t expect it to be. It’s on par with restaurants of a similar reputation in Central London and definitely worth the price, even if it’s just for a special occasion.

Starters range from the simple (dressed crab, £12.50) to the more unusual (beef tartar with cucumber, salty caramel and quail eggs, £11). The former is presented cleanly, with the light, delicate white meat and hearty dark meat filled back into the empty shell so that it makes a small bowl. Half a lemon, wrapped in a muslin cloth, is all the accompaniment needed. The beef tartar, on the other hand, is much more intricate, with a line of raw, tender meat marinated, ceviche-style, in a citrus dressing. A few well placed halves of quail eggs separate it from a parallel line of chopped cucumber and carrots, topped with flakes of caramelised popcorn – a surprising and fun addition that adds texture and a shock of sugary flavour.

Mains include a trio of pasta, such as the pork agnolotti, a large portion of square, puffy ravioli pieces cooked al dente and filled with minced pork, mixed through with a deep, savoury sauce. The main of ostrich (£19.50) is a good alternative to traditional beef dishes, especially as it’s a much lighter and leaner meat. It’s recommended served medium and arrives pink in the middle, juicy and well cooked. A side of creamy sweet potatoes, sauteed spinach and bobotie (a South African souffle-like dish of sweet, slightly spiced mincemeat topped with egg) come with the ostrich, but side dishes, including crisp, fresh green beans (£3.50) are also available.

Desserts are about £7 and include a massive, intricate coconut and poppyseed cake topped with lemon sorbet and accompanied by poached pears. The cake is thick and dense, but layered with a citrus-y cream that cuts through the rich sweetness. Poached pears aren’t really necessary with so many flavours in the dessert already, but they’re done well, soft without being too mushy. A cheese selection (£11) offers up five different options, including a Montgomery Cheddar, Stilton and goat’s cheese, a trio of oatcakes and several bunches of dried grapes, which are just that – dried red grapes, still on their stems, with a much juicer flavour and plumper texture than normal sultanas.

The Drink
A lengthy wine list features mainly French wines with a few international choices, from a reasonable £5 per glass and £17 per bottle. Eight choices of reds and eight of whites are available by the class, along with a few carafes. From the list of reds, the Pinot Noir Mansion House Bay from New Zealand (£9 per glass, £34 per bottle) is a great choice if you like full-bodied red wines; it has a spicy, complex flavour with a hint of red berries.

More than 10 Champagnes are also on the list, starting at £9.50 per glass and £42 per bottle for their sweet, delicate house Champagne. If you’re intent on indulging, the most expensive is a bottle of Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque at £195.

The Last Word
The Criterion has more than 130 years under its belt as a successful restaurant, but even if you’re unaware of its reputation as an historical hotspot or a former celebrity chef venue, the food speaks, very clearly, for itself.

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