224 Piccadilly,
London,
W1J 9HP
0871 971 6555
The ViewLondon Review
Marco Pierre White’s decadent restaurant in the heart of the West End is a sumptuous haven from the chaos of Piccadilly Circus and is currently enjoying a renaissance with the reintroduction of a magnificent French menu.The VenueSituated, as it has been since 1873, across the road from Eros and his contemporary backdrop of animated electronic advertisements for Diet Coke, the Criterion is a resplendent, Neo-Byzantine palace of gold and claret with an elaborate mosaic ceiling, enormous bronze-coloured mirrors within ornate arches and plush leather seating. It’s like a feast for the eyes - so they don’t become envious of your stomach later.
The AtmosphereDuring lunchtimes, the Criterion is suitably busy but not unattractively so. A warm murmur from the mature clientele flows throughout the restaurant, creating an ambience of sophistication coupled with sheer pleasure obtained from the food being consumed. The staff are impeccable and their attentiveness never falters.
The FoodThe menu contains a variety of delights from across the Channel such as seared tuna with aubergine caviar and duck confit with braised red cabbage, together with daily specials including pork cutlet and apple sauce, and classic Lancashire Hotpot. However, for true value, try the pre-theatre set menu of around £15.00 for two courses or £18.00 for three. The pan fried cod on a bed of leeks with balsamic sauce is delicious, beautifully cooked and immaculately presented while the elegant vanilla panacotta and poached strawberries were simply divine. There are few venues in the West End that combine lavish and rewarding dishes with such reasonable prices.
The DrinkThe one complaint, however, would be the price of the wine; the list is comprehensive to say the least with a fine international selection of reds and whites but some bottles – such as the Puligny Montrachet ‘Les Noyers Brets’ or the Barrua, Agricola Punica – could match or possibly surpass the price of your whole meal.
The Last WordThe Criterion is a magnificent venue with cuisine to match. A lunchtime visit is highly recommended.