The Crown by Victoria Park has gone all upmarket, serving the hunger and thirst of local residents – and anyone else who chances by.

The Venue
The Crown occupies the corner of Grove Road and Old Ford Road on the edge of Victoria Park. Formerly a slightly rough-edged organic pub, The Crown has stepped up a notch to blossom into a gastropub, although the restaurant area is quite separate. Recognisable from its brown exterior, low brick wall and patio, the rough edges have been smoothed out to produce a contemporary, upmarket venue.

The downstairs bar area has lime green and grey walls with a polished wood floor. It's split up into four sections with the bar on the right and the mix 'n' match decor includes rough-hewn wooden tables, elegant high-backed armchairs, and hard white chairs with stripy cushions. You’re also confronted with animal print stools, textured wallpaper and hanging lamps above the bar. What could be a cloying, eclectic decor is given a light, airy spin thanks to arched windows that let in plenty of light.

Upstairs are the two dining rooms - the first is airy with a skylight and white chairs and tabletops, whilst the second is a quieter affair with six tables, a high ceiling, and wallpaper depicting old London town. There’s a railed balcony outside where you can happily gaze out over the park to the sound of birds chirping.

The Atmosphere
The ambience at The Crown is typical of modern Hackney. Expect a mix of people including media and arts professionals in their twenties and thirties, whether they are downstairs in the bar - which gets increasingly raucous as the night wears on - or in the more hushed restaurant spaces. There is plenty of light in the day and in the evening you can watch the sun go down over the park. The background music is not too obtrusive and the staff, some of whom pre-date the recent changes, are pleasant and accommodating.

The Food
The menu is solidly sturdy British fare, having been put together through a collaboration between Ben Maschler and the head chef: few ingredients are used but they’re fresh and cooked well.

Expect dishes such as the rich devilled Welsh kidneys on toast in a creamy sauce for starters (£5.50) or Secrett’s Farm asparagus in olive oil and parmesan for £6.25. For mains there’s a 28-day air-hung rib eye steak, which is juicy with its streaks of fat, and chipped potatoes (£16). Otherwise, try the calf’s liver, mash and thin gravy (£13). To finish there’s an agreeable lemon tart or pistachio and olive oil cake (both for £5), or a cheese board. The menu treads the back-to-basics path a little too religiously, however, and would benefit from more veg on the plate - the addition of a couple of vegetable side dishes and at least one more dessert course.

The Drink
The bar has a fine selection of draught beers including Amstell, Edelweiss, Adnams and London Pride, as well as Aspall’s Suffolk Cider. In bottles there’s Crown, Sol and Peroni.

The wine list, however, is their strong point and is put together by Master of Wine John Clevely. It’s an enlightened selection that includes some very good (and cheap) Chilean bottles, as well as the sophisticated flavours now emerging from Australia and a top-end Beaune 1er Cru Domaine Latour 2003 for £34. Even the house wine - a deep, smooth and fruity Lerane Grenache Merlot (£12.90 a bottle or £3.40 a small glass), is astonishingly good and served at just the right temperature. With around sixteen bottles each of reds and whites and plenty on offer by the glass, you’ve got an excellent range at reasonable prices.

The Last Word
Although the crowd is urban, the setting is almost pastoral with the views over Victoria Park. The Crown is a great place to get away from city life whilst still feeling a part of it.

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