With the Soho location pulling in the punters and a Camden version on the way, The Diner in Shoreditch proves that it’s still a favourite for fast, cheap American food.

The Venue
Similar in decor to the Soho location, The Diner in Shoreditch is all retro Americana with a hint of edgy grunge. Their trademark symbol, a red lightning bolt, can be seen decorating the walls, along with a framed restaurant logo and a poster of the ‘70s film Viva Knievel. They’ve packed in as many red leather booths as possible, and two- and four-seaters fill the floor - apart from the open kitchen and bar area where you can wait to pick up takeaways. The restaurant’s popularity is evident by the fact that everything seems a bit frayed around the edges, even though it only opened in 2005. Some of the booths are patched up with duct tape, but instead of feeling shabby it just seems well-loved – besides, this is Shoreditch, not Mayfair.

The Atmosphere
There’s a really laid back, friendly atmosphere here thanks to a mixed crowd of Shoreditch locals, families and groups of friends out for a meal before heading to one of the bars nearby. Although you’d be correct in the assumption that a large part of the people who frequent The Diner are students and twenty-somethings, small children and even grandparents put in an appearance as well – although they probably won’t stay as late. Staff make frequent patrols around the restaurant, ensuring that if you need anything, someone is just around the corner at most. Unlike at many popular American diners, however, there’s no real waiting area here; if you show up on a busy night and there aren’t any tables free, you’ll be waiting in the slightly cramped entranceway or even in a queue on the street.

The Food
The only real surprise on this American-style menu is the prices, as everything on the menu is easily under a tenner. Classic favourites like burgers, burritos and breakfasts (American and Mexican versions only, served until 4pm) all appear, and, well… that’s about it! Although the menu is basic, the crowd certainly isn’t complaining. Why mess around with fancily presented plates when what you really want is a burger in a basket? And that’s precisely what you get, burgers galore in twelve different varieties, including two vegetarian. The cheeseburger (served in a very retro plastic oval basket) is thick and juicy, with a big fluffy bun. The little pot of chunky salsa (salsa being the very in condiment in New York diner circles at the moment, naturally) and a few slices of pickled gherkins make the burger even juicier. Other dishes (cleverly called Blue Plates, diner slang for a cheap special) include a vegetarian burrito, an enormous tortilla stuffed with a spicy, slippery mix of vegetables (onions, multi-coloured peppers and mushrooms) coated in a hot chipotle sauce. The portion is enormously satisfying and the plate is decorated with generous scoops of jalepeno-enhanced guacamole and sour cream, but it would be nice if the ends of the burrito were closed so the veggies don’t squeeze out onto your plate whenever you take a bite.

Although the plates are certainly big, it would be a shame not to try a side or two, especially at the prices. There are five types of fries: regular (aka skinny) fries, Diner fries (seasoned with cajun spices), fat fries (chip-style wedges), cheese fries (with melted, shredded cheese) and chilli cheese fries (with melted cheese and a spicy beef chilli). Cheese fries are as skinny and cheesy as promised, and surprisingly light and mercifully non-greasy. Hash browns, another diner staple, are crisply fried potato triangles with a perfectly salty, savoury flavour. Desserts include the classic cheesecake, apple pie and a sweet slice of pecan pie with a nice texture, thick but not too solid. The waffle with jam and cream is another good dessert, kind of like a big, crisp sugary version of cream tea-style scones.

The Drink
You can find a wide variety of milkshake flavours here, from vanilla-chocolate-strawberry standards to the more unusual pistachio, hazelnut and peanut butter and Nutella, plus a Coke float. Harder options are available too, like the Coloner Parker (vanilla ice cream, Jack Daniels and peanut butter – a seemingly unusual combination that turns out to be a perfect match, thick and soft with peanut butter mix through) and the Luau (a simple coconut ice cream with rum that’s nicely light and refreshing for such a thick concoction). There are three red and three white wines, starting from £14 a bottle, plus beer (Corona, Brooklyn Lager, Red Stripe and more) for about £3.

The Last Word
Even if you’re not a regular in the Shoreditch party scene, if you like cheap food, a friendly atmosphere and burgers galore, you’ll think that The Diner, quite simply, rocks.

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