The Diner is already well-established in Shoreditch, Soho and Camden, and its new branch brings a transatlantic menu and trendy Americana to Essex Road.

The Venue
Located at the Islington Green end of Essex Road, The Diner is large and inviting. On the outside, it’s all shiny and bright, with full-length windows at the front and a big red neon sign. Inside, there’s a big bar, with a huge collection of bottles and trinkets, and an illuminated old-style movie-theatre billboard above it. The restaurant feels roomy and spacious, with its bold red-and-black colour scheme, red leather booths and shiny high tables with glittery red stools. Blown-up photographs of American landscapes hang on the walls. Each booth comes with its own little retro click-on lamp and a caddy of squeezy ketchup and mustard. It’s classic, trendy and kitsch, all at the same time.

The Atmosphere
The Diner seems to appeal to everyone: you’ll find families, couples and groups of all ages coming here for a hearty breakfast or a burger fix. The deep red leather booths and dark ambience gives The Diner a comfortable cosiness and you can linger here over your coffee refills, people-watching or chatting. The service is quite speedy and the young, Hoxton-attired staff are friendly and polite, popping between tables to check on their customers. It’s already becoming a popular spot for Islington’s breakfast and brunch crowd, who might ordinarily be squeezing themselves into the small cafes of Camden Passage.

The Food
The menu is packed with all-American favourites. On the burger menu, there are eleven different choices, available with an array of sides and extras. Then there are the ‘blue plates’ (priced from £6.50 - £9), which include chilli with crackers, and meatloaf and mash; and sandwiches (£6 - £8), hot dogs and corn dogs.

The highlight, though, is the all-day breakfast menu. Ranging from about £5 to £8, it includes French toast, eggs and omelettes, Mexican plates like huevos rancheros, and waffles, plus a long list of extras. But don’t be tempted by those and try the gorgeous pancakes instead. They’re available in short or long stacks with sides, or you could just go the whole hog and have a Lumberjack’s Breakfast (£7.50). The three light golden pancakes are sweet and moist, and they come with two thick, salty, meaty rashers of bacon, two eggs (fried sunnyside up, they are perfectly cooked, oozing yolk at the touch of a fork, but you can have them poached if you prefer) and small paper cup of maple syrup. Unfortunately the side of blueberries, which cost £1, is also served in a tiny paper pot, a rather sad and puny portion containing about five fruits. That’s the only let-down: the portions aren’t particularly generous for the price.

The Drink
The Diner offers a selection of American beers (about £3.50), cocktails and hard shakes with a dash of liquor (£7). It’s worth trying the milkshakes (about £4.20); they’re made to order and come in a variety of classic flavours, served in a tall sundae glass with the remainder, about another glassful, brought over in a cocktail shaker. Then there are the soda pops, priced between £2 to £3, which should appeal to anyone with a sweet tooth: cream soda, root beer, assorted juices, Arizona juice teas, or a Coke Float.

Hot drinks like tea and coffee are available too, priced at about £2, and if you’re hungry for caffeine, go for the filter coffee with endless refills.

The Last Word
Although it does have the novelty value of being a nostalgic American experience, The Diner doesn’t have the over-the-top, theme-park brashness you might expect from this kind of joint. It just feels relaxed and easy, serving straight-up, no-frills American classics. The retro styling and fun, sociable atmosphere make it a great place to indulge in some seriously calorific enjoyment.

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