Like the sign used to read, ‘Broadway Market is not a sinking ship, it’s a submarine’ and when that was the case, The Dove was the periscope that helped it morph into its current much-loved guise.

The Venue
Traditional on the outside and traditional within, The Dove is all about a dimly lit cosiness. The darkly varnished wooden furniture is in keeping with the classic touches of old copper pots and pans and dusty floorboards. There is more to it though, and beneath the mighty Leffe mural on the high ceiling you’ll find jauntier trinkets than in your average pub and quirkily filled picture frames mounted on the walls. The top section of the pub is where it’s at its brightest and, as you delve down the stairs and into the back bar, things take on a more morose sort of appeal.

The restaurant area next door is reserved strictly for dining, and to go with its brighter bearing, feels fairly separate from the rest of the pub.

The Atmosphere
A real institution, The Dove is the oldest drinking establishment on Broadway Market and is a bit like a grumpy old mayor of the street. It has its detractors but most would probably agree that it’s a purveyor of a fine old time. It is a buzzing pub that serves the locale well, with a generally welcoming demeanour. Weekends are packed, with the market on Saturdays and a good bloody Mary served on a Sunday, but weeknights are generally far more relaxed.

The Food
The Dove serves its food on both sides - bar and restaurant - and the European cuisine proves popular. Wild boar burgers and ostrich sausages prove that even the staples can be exotic alongside chips and mash, but at £10 a dish you do pay a premium for the organic, alternative meats. Belgian classics of waterzooi and beef carbonnade are rich, tasty stews in their own right but go well with a side portion of chips (not included). As well as the core menu there are daily specials and, on a recent visit, the haddock on a bed of mash topped with a poached egg was delicious. The average price of a main is around £13, which isn’t cheap but neither is Broadway Market.

The Drink
A Belgian beer-lovers paradise, The Dove is the owner of one of the biggest selections outside of Belgium. On tap there is the rich, bittersweet Brugse Zot blonde, Palm, Kriek (cherry) and Delirium - all served by the half. Lagers by the pint are Crystal and Jupiler, two of Belgium’s most popular lagers, plus Stella. It’s in the fridges where the interesting beers are kept though, and with the menu as your guide you can attempt the journey through all 100 or so abbey, blonde, gueuze and golden ales. Non-Belgian draughts include Staropramen, Guinness and Timothy Taylor’s.

The Last Word
Snug in the winter, lively in the summer, The Dove is always a hub inside and out. The specialist beers and the food here are just the icing on the cake.

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