The Duke is a classy Richmond gastro pub, with a menu that promotes hearty British cuisine. The pub oozes sophistication and is particularly popular with upstanding locals who drink and dine on a night out, or stop off on the way home from a hard day’s work.

The Venue
The Duke is visible the moment you turn into Duke Street, and the venue benefits from the proximity of the train station (Richmond overground is literally only a few minutes walk), and the fact that it’s just off the main high street.

The Duke looks exactly the way it sounds – classic, British and refined. However, despite its traditional feel, it’s clear that the owners have tried to add a bit of a modern edge to the place. There’s an open, light feel about The Duke, the large glass windows invite you into its bustling, friendly bosom.

The interior is, again, light and airy with traditional wooden floors and a bar surrounded by comfy seating and lightly painted walls. The furniture isn’t heavy or too traditional, which reflects the upbeat, modern thirty-somethings of Richmond, which seem to be the establishment’s main clientele.

The Atmosphere
To get to the main dining area you have to walk through the pub. As you do so, it’s lovely to hear the chit chat of happy drinkers and clinking of glasses in the glow of The Duke’s warm light.

Staff are nothing less than professional, friendly and very accommodating. They make you feel instantly welcome as you wait to be seated in the main dining area. The fact that waiting time is minimal adds to The Duke’s easy sophistication and silky, traditional atmosphere.

The Food
Upon receiving the menu, it’s clear The Duke pride themselves on gastro excellence. The choice is exemplary and it’s good to see an equal balance of earthy meat dishes alongside mouth-watering seafood mains.

Starters include veggie options, such as the cauliflower soup and farmhouse bread priced (£5), or beetroot, red cabbage, caper and Oxford blue cheese salad (£5.85 or £8.50 as a main). However, the potted smoked haddock, tomato jam and toast (£6) is the obvious choice here. The smoked haddock has the perfect blend of creaminess alongside light, smoky and salty flavours, whilst the tomato jam perfectly complements the fish with its sweet and juicy tang. This is all mopped up with a satisfying crunch from the farmhouse bread. The ham hock terrine and piccalilli (£6.50) comes with the same seedy, lightly toasted farmhouse bread. The ham hock has a good meaty consistency and the piccalilli is vibrant and its sharp taste offsets the neutrality of the rocket. For some, the prices of the starters may sound steep, but there’s no scrimping on ingredients here.

The mains are the real deal at The Duke. Expect classic gastro pub fair like Lincolnshire sausages and mash with onion gravy (£10), classic twists such as char grilled cote du boeuf, hand cut chips, green pepper and shallot butter (£16.50) and a nod to the veggies with a wild mushroom spinach and parmesan risotto (£9.50).

A perfect example of The Duke’s culinary finesse is the pan-fried sea bass, braised fennel, curly kale and salsa verde (£14.75). The sea bass is fresh, succulent and has a crunchy skin that acts as a foil against the juicy flakes of fish. The kale is cooked to perfection with nothing more than a slight bite to it, which is immediately followed by a beautifully buttery taste.

The roasted lamb shank, spinach, mash and rosemary jus (£15), unfortunately, doesn’t live up to The Duke’s high standards. The lamb is not as tender as you’d expect, there’s a bit of a struggle cutting the meat from the bone - it’s ever so slightly tough. The mash is slightly dry and there’s not enough gravy.

For dessert, the creme brulee (£4.50) is a real class act. Again, this place is not stingy with the size of their portions and after a sizeable starter and main, it’s a wonder how you’ll manage to squeeze the creme brulee into your, already bulging, gut. Persevere and you'll be rewarded: the light glaze is crispy, sweet and reveals a gorgeous creamy treasure trove of vanilla loveliness underneath.

The apple crumble and vanilla ice cream (£5) is a little tart and the ratio of apple crumble to ice cream is a little high. This dish could benefit from a little more ice cream to neutralize the sharp taste of the apple.

The Drink
The Duke’s drinks list is truly impressive – from digestifs to dessert wine, cocktails to beers. For those wanting a non-alcoholic drink, there’s also a standard choice of teas (green, mint, camomile) and coffees.

Beers come at very reasonable pub prices, ranging from £3.45 for a pint of Guinness, £3.30 for a bottle of Budvar and £4.15 for a pint of Hoegaarden.

House wine starts at £14.65 per bottle for an Italian red or a French white, whilst the El Talud Tempranillo Martinez Laorden Rioja is the most expensive rose wine on the menu, priced at £20.25 per bottle. The flavour reflects the price – full bodied and fruity, it bursts with flavour without becoming sickeningly sweet.

The Last Word
The foodies of Richmond definitely have a treat right on their doorsteps. Occasionally a dish might dip below the venue's excellent standards but The Duke remains one of the area’s finest, and whether you’re venturing here for a relaxed meal or an elegant local drink, this place fits the bill.

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