Fine dining in the wealthy commuter belt of South West London is no big surprise for suburban gourmets and Central Londoners in the know. The bustling French Table is Surbiton’s not-so-best-kept secret.

The Venue
The French Table is located on Surbiton’s Maple Road, a tree-lined street a block away from the Thames (and a stretch of yacht and sailing clubs as well). The neighbourhood is quiet but trendy as well, with a couple of nice looking bars and pubs nearby. Inside, the restaurant is long and narrow (the mirror on the back wall makes it look even longer), with light pink-painted walls and a couple of squares of artwork and glass vases.

The Atmosphere
This restaurant is always busy and you might have to book well in advance. Even mid-week nearly every table on the floor is filled – and the ones that aren’t are quickly given to walk-ins. Service is relaxed but professional, knowledgeable of the menu but busy enough not to have the time to re-fill your wineglass constantly. Because of the crowd, though – as well as the shape of the room – it’s actually quite loud and you might find yourself straining to hear the other members of your party.

The Food
Fine French fare. The menu is seasonal, changing monthly, and made from produce that’s bought on the day. Prices aren’t cheap, but they’re not terribly expensive either and certainly justifiable for a nice meal out. Starters range from £5.80 to £9.80 (for foie gras) and recommended choices include a stout rectangle of wild halibut topped with shredded red peppers and wrapped in spinach on top of a bed of toasted brioche. This is a really nice dish, savoury with a hint of spice from the mustard sauce, and the fish is firm and well cooked. Quail salad is served as two pieces of quail (cooked perfectly so that it’s slightly pink, although the skin tastes a bit too salty) on top of a bed of mixed leaves and juicy peeled green grapes mixed with a subtle honey dressing. On the side of the dish is a swish of raisins in a plum-y sauce with hard boiled, crisp, deep fried quail’s eggs with bright yellow yolks.

Mains range from £10.80 – £16.80, with sides at £2.50 per portions. The roast cod comes with pieces of dried fruit sprinkled on top and braised chicory on the side, all of it lightly drizzled with a tart orange sauce. Although the dish sounds unusual, the fruit and fish go surprisingly well together, meaty and sweet flavours well balanced. The only strange note is the chicory, which tastes too bitter to be included in such an otherwise well-balanced dish. The roast Basque suckling pig is well worth the £16 – a large portion of tender, juicy pork balanced on top of a confit of slightly caramelised onions. Also on the place is a stripe of apple mousseline (the colour and texture of mashed potatoes but with a crisp and slightly tart taste), a crisp, potato-y cake in a swirled lattice shape, and three wedges of savoury stuffing in sausage-like cases. There are lots of things going on in this dish, but no matter what you eat or what combination you eat it in everything blends together perfectly. Recommended sides include a smoky honey-glazed carrots and a large, fluffy bowl of mashed potatoes.

Desserts continue in the same French vein. A crisp and sugary plum tart tatin comes with an egg-shaped scoop of slightly sharp cinnamon ice cream, whilst the chocolate souffle is dark and rich in taste but light in texture, the shot glass of thick chocolate milk that comes with it an extra bit of indulgence.

The Drink
The wine list is long and mostly French, although there are a couple of bottles that should raise an eyebrow, including choices from Hungary, Oregon and Kent. The choices are reasonably priced at bottles ranging from £13 - £125, with glasses available as well as a cocktail and wine of the month. The house red, a 2006 Terres Noires Grenache Merlot, is a clean and fresh tasting wine with a hint of red berries.

The Last Word
Although many Central Londoners travelling to Surbiton for a night out would be inconceivable, The French Table is obviously (and deservedly) doing very well thanks to a well-fed contingent of loyal locals. Who needs Zone 1, anyway?

venue information venue map view london review add a review image gallery (9)