The Grill Room at The Dorchester has relaunched with considerable style and now offers seriously considered, top quality food in its elaborate setting.

The Venue
With their colourful mix of rich residents, curious tourists, birthday party guests and celebrities, top London hotel restaurants are some of the best places to eat in the capital and The Dorchester is no exception.

The Atmosphere
The Grill Room at The Dorchester was taken on at the end of 2006 by Aiden Byrne (Tom Aiken's former head chef) who has freshened up the formerly stuffy atmosphere. Admittedly the decor is still over the top, with its gaudy mixture of blood-red sofa backs, gilded walls and tartan upholstery, but the food is so finely prepared that the surroundings quickly fade into the background.

The Food
Food is serious stuff at The Dorchester and there's an emphasis on UK produce throughout the menu. Starters include a dish of Dublin Bay prawns with ricotta dumplings and caviar with bright green broccoli puree swooshed flamboyantly across the plate. The scallops are from Cornwall and come with a heady mix of white chocolate and white truffle risotto. Elsewhere there are braised trotters, red mullet and roasted, smoked foie gras.

The main courses are equally inventive. The saddle of venison is baked in bison grass with a fig and bitter chocolate purée and baked beetroot. The lobster thermidor comes with veal sweetbreads. On more familiar ground, there are the Grill Room classics including oak-smoked wild Scottish salmon and roast rib of Aberdeen Angus beef. To finish, the cheese board has an impressively strong selection of small-production British makers whilst the desserts let Byrne give full voice to his artistry. The orange and olive oil cake with orange sorbet is delicious and the candied celery tastes like pear drops. Other options include white chocolate and yoghurt pannacotta with meringue and green tea and bread and butter spiced mousse with vanilla butter cream.

The Drink
The Grill Room at The Dorchester food menu is strong but the wine list compares more than favourably. The list created by Jason McAuliffe, formerly of Chez Bruce, is formidable and, refreshingly for such an establishment, there are plenty of wines by the glass and bottles for less than £30. Whilst the choices are quite heavily tilted towards Europe, the list is supplemented by bottles from around the world.

The Last Word
While some diners may find the level of sophistication a bit daunting, The Grill Room at The Dorchester is an epicurean education and one which foodies and wine buffs of all ages will revel in.

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