The Gun comes with a formidable reputation. Owners, Tom and Ed Martin, are the gastropub gurus of London and Ed’s expertise with the wine list combined with Tom’s expert choice of menu has successfully managed to challenge Horatio Nelson as the headline act at this superb Docklands venue.

The Venue
Located next to the Isle of Dogs with its Blue Bridge, The Gun enjoys expansive views of the River Thames which is mainly dominated by the O2 concert venue on the south side. The Gun resides in the same street as Nelson House, former home of Britain’s greatest ever naval officer. There is a wonderful historical poetry in the fact that directly adjacent to The Gun is an alfresco Portuguese terrace restaurant called A Grehla. The coast of Portugal was the location for several of Nelson’s naval victories so doubtless he would have approved.

The Atmosphere
The Gun successfully manages to create a dozen different atmospheres in one venue. It is quite remarkable that the various rooms, dining areas, balconies, snuggeries, bars, riverside tables and conference rooms all coexist in perfect harmony and one area does not impinge on the enjoyment of another. Because of this all age groups drink and eat side by side in perfect harmony. Maritime history adorns the walls, which are more respectful than intrusive, and the tales of smugglers’ from days of yore add a daring and adventure to the whole experience. The balance is such that young professionals, mature, elegant types and family and friends all soak up the infectious buzz generated by The Gun.

The Food
The menu is well thought through and the fish is sourced from the nearby Billingsgate and Borough markets. There is also a specials board which offers the opportunity to engage with the knowledgeable and helpful staff.

For starters the crisp pork belly with snails, garlic and peppered chicory (£8.50) tastes better than it looks – an example of why taste should always trump presentation. Looking around the busy tables, it is evident that the oysters with red wine shallot vinegar (£12.50 for six) is the starter of choice. There are other adventurous attractions amongst the starters, not least the combination of duck egg and eel (£8), or mackerel with beetroot and apple (£7.50).

For mains the roast fillet of Atlantic cod, cockles and creamed leeks with lattice crisps (£18) is simply delightful, a winning couplet of lightness and freshness.

The 35-day, air-dried Black Angus rib-eye steak with bearnaise sauce, watercress and hand cut chips is a tad overpriced at £27, an almost 70% increase on its 2007 price of £16.50. This should not deflect from the fact that it was both succulent and delicious.

The pudding list serves as a magnet to the eyes and the apple charlotte (£5.50) may well hold your gaze the longest. The pastry is on the mark and all the flavours and temperatures are spot on. The chocolate terrine with hazelnut cream (£5.50) also provides a delightful option. It is also worth noting that The Gun selects various English cheeses on its menu, mainly from the South West.

The Drink
‘Wow’ is the best way to describe the wine list available at The Gun. 20 countries offer over 250 choices of champagne, red, white, rose and dessert wines which should provide even the most discerning of visitors with some degree of satisfaction. This is certainly the case with the wonderfully chilled 2009 French Bourgogne Blanc which is a fine old friend to the Atlantic cod while the 2009 Cabernet Franc almost stole the limelight away from the rib-eye steak.

For those enjoying the bar experience, The Gun serves up a range of signature cocktails to ease the mind into the evening’s events. They follow a Nelson theme and both the Lady Emma and The Artillery stimulate much delight.

The standard selection of lagers (Carlsberg, Heineken et al), beers (London Pride, Adnams et al) and ciders (Bulmers) are all on tap and there is an added intrigue provided by a monthly seasonal guest ale.

The Last Word
With its history in the amorous liaisons between Horatio Nelson and Lady Hamilton, The Gun is so much more than a pub. It is a place of snuggeries, open fires, alfresco dining and gastronomic excellence. If you have a newspaper to read, a wedding reception to arrange or anything in between, be sure to place The Gun high-up on your list of options.

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