27 Coldharbour,
Docklands,
London,
E14 9NS
0872 148 2405
The ViewLondon Review
A quaint, award-winning pub found next to the stark buildings and stainless steel exteriors of Canary Wharf, The Gun has a lot to offer the community of Coldharbour, but may be a bit of a trek for non-Docklanders.The VenueThe Gun is an undeniably perfectly formed pub. Beautiful and charming, it can be appreciated by lovers of old man pubs and more upmarket gastropubs alike. Upon entering, you’ll find the main bar and dining area, famed for its good food. The tables are laid out in white tablecloths and pretty adournments – although you’ll find yourself a little sardined in to make maximum use of the constantly-filled tables. However, it is not the dining area that makes this venue special, that honour is reserved solely for the huge outdoor terrace – and yes, for those of you that feel the cold, it is heated. There’s also an al fresco bar with a barbeque in the summer, which makes great use of its excellent location by the water.
Its location does have a down point in that it proves to be a bit of a pain for Canary Wharfers, who have a plethora of places to pick in the centre, and it's a little far east for other Londoners - this isn't the place to travel to for a quick drink.
The AtmosphereThe atmosphere here is more akin to a country pub – the staff are warm and genuinely friendly. However, it can get really busy at peak times, especially in the dining area, and you may find yourself unattended and left waiting. That said, for a pub, the service is really very professional, especially in the dining room, as you’re told about the day’s ingredients and advised on what’s particularly good. The wait staff have an intrinsic understanding of the food. The buzzing vibe doesn’t make for the most relaxing atmosphere, but it does lend itself to a fun and upbeat evening out.
The FoodThe food here is at the top of the scale for pub grub, although be warned that the prices do match this. Starters include an excellent selection of oysters, which are pricey at £11 but perfectly prepared, and for half a dozen of the beautifully presented shellfish it’s not above what you’d expect to pay. If oysters aren’t your thing, the homemade crumpet, sweetbread and duck egg is a fine choice, although still is expensive at £8. The ingredients are fresh, and the duck egg will explode in your mouth in rich, yolky flavours. The jury’s still out on whether it’s worth the hefty price tag.
There is an excellent selection of mains here, all freshly delivered on the day. The veal is especially good, cooked until pink it is tender and moist with the fats exploding in your mouth without being overly filling. The pan fried Jon Dory, mussels and mousserons, ratte potatoes and roasted garlic dressing is also worth a mention – with an excellent cut of fish chosen from the market that very morning. The mussels are especially delicious, without any of the toughness that can accompany this seafood. However, at £18 a pop, these aren’t cheap for a gastropub. Especially when you factor in the £4 sides.
Finally, the desserts. The trio of homemade ice cream may sound a little dull, but they really do have that homely taste you just don’t get from a tub of Ben and Jerrys. However, the Amarelinha pudding with milk chocolate sorbet is definitely lacking. The pudding is a little tough on the palette – and indeed the fork. And the milk chocolate sorbet tastes more like a dark chocolate sauce, which doesn’t really complement the pudding it’s sidled with.
Overall, the food is nice. However, at restaurant prices it may not be considered up to scratch, especially now that other gastropubs are raising their game. Although their barbeque really should be tried in the summer months.
The DrinkThere is an excellent selection of wine to accompany your dinner, with a vast selection of reds, whites, roses, dessert wines and even Champagnes. Originating from around the world these are excellent value for money. You can buy a really decent bottle for around £20-£25, or splash out for an exceptional choice. A great selection for all budgets.
Unsurprisingly – it is a pub at heart, after all – there is also a great choice of beers and lagers on draught at The Gun. Lowenbrau, San Miguel, Becks Vier, Carlsberg Extra Cold, Guinness, Guinness Extra Cold, Hoegaarden and Addlestones means that there will be something to satisfy those after a good pint. And with premium spirits to choose from, you’ll be hard pushed not to come here and enjoy a good drink. Especially if you’re local.
The Last WordThe Gun is an award-winning pub that puts a lot on its good reputation – and mostly delivers. As a pub, it deserves 4 stars, but as far as a dining establishment goes it misses out due to its restaurant prices for what is, ultimately, pub food (if good quality) and service.