Celebrities, from A-list to Z-, still frequent this glamorous Theatreland stalwart, but for how much longer? Nearby, J Sheekey is at the top of its classy, cosy game, Le Caprice perennially offers glamour and style, and the relatively recent reopening of seafood specialist Scott’s has met with near universal acclaim. What’s more, they are all stablemates of The Ivy: can its simple and not always perfectly executed food head off such competition indefinitely?

The Venue
There’s no denying that this is a beautiful room thanks to the oak panelling, the 1920s many-hued stained glass windows and, more than anything, the brilliant lighting which somehow manages to flatter every lady’s complexion and provide an intimate, luxurious ambience. There are nooks and crannies for romantic trysts and prominent tables at which “notice-me!” pop stars can pretend they don’t want to be noticed.

The Atmosphere
….is really what this place is all about. Heads turn whenever another party enters the room. Will it contain Hollywood royalty, an underdressed former soap starlet and her footballer boyfriend, or just Mr and Mrs Joe Average who have anticipated this chance to hobnob with the Good and Great since they finally secured a coveted booking three long months ago? There is no dress code, so well-heeled, well-tailored, mature couples rub shoulders with jeans- and sneakers-clad young trendies. You’ll often find a smattering of family groups including small children, too. The whole operation runs like a smooth Swiss watch, and a surprisingly friendly and unsnobbish one at that. Waiters glide by, pausing for cheery exchanges with their regulars who make up a substantial chunk of the clientele, and all of whose likes and dislikes are seemingly effortlessly remembered and catered for but must, in reality, be meticulously documented. It’s as impressive a show as anything the West End’s theatres can offer.

The Food
The menu is huge and consists of classics, and sensible, unfussy combinations like Caesar salad (£7.25), steak tartare (£9.25/£15.75), the much-acclaimed chicken livers on toast (£7.50), fish and chips with pea puree (£17.50) or a hamburger (£11.50). Those keen to impress might want to start with sevruga caviar (£58 for 30g or £90 for 50g).

Vegetarians have their own special menu and, of course, veggie regulars get handed a copy without even having to ask for it. A starter of cos hearts and avocado salad with piquillo peppers (£6.50/£9.50) does pretty much what it says on the tin, the piquillo peppers marrying with the dressing to provide an agreeable sweet piquancy. When the recipient remarks that, ideally, he likes his avocado in bigger chunks, the waiter immediately offers to bring some, which is a classy touch. It’s a perfectly fine starter but there’s no wow factor. From the main menu, a generous, piping-hot bowl of crab bisque impresses more with its great depth of flavour.

A veggie main of baked butternut squash with spiced lentils, wilted treviso and toasted walnuts (£8.50/£14.75) is good comfort food, and an interesting, well thought-through combination. The kitchen puts a twist on pan-fried skate wing and burnt butter by adding fried roes and tiny brown shrimps (£18.50). A side order of chips (£3.75), however, lets the side down badly. They are oily and just not crisp enough, presumably having been fried at too low a temperature or not for long enough: a schoolboy error!

It’s hard to go wrong with ice cream and hot chocolate sauce (£6.75). The Ivy does it well by adding little crunchy bits of honeycomb to the ice cream and serving the sauce in a separate jug to avoid the last few mouthfuls degenerating into a melted mess. Chocolate pudding with mint chocolate chip ice cream (£8) turns out to be a chocolate fondant. Another 30 seconds in the oven would have improved it by reducing the proportion of melted centre, but the flavour is rich and satisfying, and the pairing with the refreshingly minty ice cream works.

The Drink
The wine list is large and leans more towards the Old World than the New. There are about 50 whites, starting at £21 and rising to £135 for the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrieres, Domaine Louis Carillon 2005. Entry level to the 56 reds is slightly lower with two choices, one French, one Spanish, under £20. A Rioja ‘La Montesa’ Palacios Remondo 2004, Spain at £31.25 is smoothly classy. The top end is more extreme, too, with Chateau Leoville-Las Cases, 2eme Cru Classe St Julien, Bordeaux 1985 at a wallet-stopping £375. Commendably, 15 varieties are available in half bottles and 13 by the glass. There are six roses by the bottle and eight dessert options.

The Last Word
For some, The Ivy is the last word in style, glamour and service. Who cares if the food is hardly cutting edge when romance is in the air and you are rubbing shoulder pads with the glitterati? If, however, your priority is innovative, fault-free food and you couldn’t care less whether a supermodel is picking at a rocket salad on the next table, there are better places in the West End to spend your £50 or £60 a head.

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