The Larder is the main restaurant in the Tower Bridge branch of the Hilton chain. Metres away from London Bridge tube, the London Dungeons, Tower Bridge and the Thames, it occupies an enviable location.

The Venue
The Larder suffers from the sterile feel often associated with hotel restaurants. The decor is contemporary, making use of the tried and tested formula of dark wood furnishings, white walls and modern light fixtures but it is somewhat devoid of personality. There are large windows although the view of ground level More London Place is disappointing given the iconic landmarks that are so close by.

The Atmosphere
The restaurant is rarely more than half full and presumably most of the diners are also hotel guests, many dining alone or with colleagues. As such the restaurant lacks any sort of buzz, which the ambient background music fails to disguise. This could however be a plus point amongst hotel guests partaking in working lunches or dinners. There are a few outside tables but More London Place is a busy thoroughfare for office workers, runners and tourists alike and does not benefit long from the evening sun.

The Food
The menu offers a relatively small selection of European cuisine with a couple of vegetarian and healthy eating options highlighted in each category. Of the starters, the salt and Szechwan pepper squid (£8.50) is well presented, with each piece of squid served on an individual bed of pickled ginger, red onion, spring onions and garlic. Unfortunately whilst the contrast of colours is aesthetically pleasing the combination of the strong flavours somewhat overwhelms the squid, which is tender, though the batter boarders on bland. The garden flavour risotto (£8.50) is more successful. A creamy risotto with sweet green peas, runner beans and asparagus, this is a subtle dish. The Parmesan crisps provide an extra texture and strength of flavour that enhances rather than detracts from the dish.

As well as the more ‘serious’ main courses there is a comfort food section which includes staples such as the club sandwich or fish and chips. The standards of presentation remain high with the main course dishes. In particular, the lamb, which includes both pan roasted loin and slow cooked neck, makes full use of colour and texture to create something that looks almost too good to eat. A rainbow kebab of peppers skewered through the meat, green basil oil and crisped tomatoes all provide a colourful backdrop to the meat. Sadly, both cuts of meat come overcooked, with medium erring far closer to well done. The roasted hand loin cod with chorizo, whilst not quite as colourful as the lamb, is equally visually appealing. The cod and chorizo work well together, although again the cod could stand a few minutes less roasting time. The fennel is hard to detect in the mash but the dish as a whole is tasty enough. Both dishes come in at £18.50 which is at the top end of the range for the mains.

Of the deserts (all £6.50) the trio of tea cakes probably represents the best value and is easily enough for two to share. The pistachio and almond is certainly the most intriguing, green in colour, moist and dense in texture with a subtle flavour. The chocolate brownie comes a solid second place with the carrot cake bringing up the rear. The healthy choice is roasted peaches and a raspberry and tarragon jelly. The jelly is served in a shot glass, although the lack of a suitable spoon makes this more a logistical challenge than anything else. The addition of tarragon seems to be something of an unnecessary afterthought.

The Drink
With 16 reds and 16 whites there is a fair breadth of choice on the wine list and these are handily grouped by category such as ‘full flavoured spicy robust reds’ and ‘fruity aromatic whites’. Prices are mostly in the £20 to £25 range with European wines represented more heavily. The Italian Pinot Grigio (£20) is a solid choice although for the price you might expect something a little more special. There is a small selection of Champagne cocktails at £10.50 and bottles start at £30 ranging up to an eye watering £140.

The Last Word
The Larder is very much a case of style over substance with food that looks far better than it tastes. Although functional as a hotel restaurant, the Larder is not a dining destination in itself.

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