The Lawn Bistro

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 2 reviews

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67 High Street,
Wimbledon,
London,
SW19 5EE

(020) 8947 8278

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byKelly Hussey03/10/2011
A welcome addition to Wimbledon’s restaurant scene, this new eatery already has the tongues of London’s foodies wagging - and their mouths watering, no doubt.

The Venue
Lawn Bistro has got it right decor-wise. The frontage cuts a striking figure without being too gaudy, with its low-hanging canopy, understated sign and large front windows offering views of what’s within. The space inside is well conceived, with the 60+ covers being comfortably accommodated without things feeling claustrophobic. As far as the décor itself goes it does veer on the ‘neutral’ side but the choice of grey in the colour scheme is enlivened by graphic prints that stop it from becoming too dull. It’s the kind of place that leaves you focusing on the food rather than the gimmicky aesthetic - just as it should be.

The Atmosphere
Lawn Bistro benefits from its location in Wimbledon, giving it an immediate sense of calm as well as that upmarket feel this area exudes - it's sure to benefit when the tennis hits too. As it is, in-the-know foodies and plenty of locals have converged already. And it has the feeling of somewhere that is still finding its feet somewhat, with the service occasionally proving a little slow and lacking the seamless efficiency of similar restaurants that have had more time to bed in. Still, as the new team gets used to working together and the kitchen and waiting staff improve their communication, it’s likely that this will drastically improve.

The Food
With people concerned about their wallets, set menus have started to become more popular in London - and it’s a trend that Lawn Bistro has fully embraced. The menu is priced at £27.50 for two courses or £32.50 for three courses, with an additional 12.5% optional service charge, so you know exactly how much to budget before you go. The cuisine is modern-European meets classic French, and is overseen by head chef Ollie Couillaud who has worked in Michelin starred kitchens like Chez Bruce and The Square.

For starters, the chicken liver and foie gras parfait is a delight - and a cost-effective way of sampling what can often be an expensive option. The parfait is rich, creamy and packed full of flavour, and balanced nicely by an apple and quince chutney that only flirts with being too sweet. The toast it’s served with adds a pleasant crunchy texture to the soft parfait, and although it’s a full-flavoured starter, it’s not so rich that you’ll be left wondering how you will ever be able to face your main course.

If two of you can agree, the côte de boeuf is definitely one to try. There's an £8 per person surcharge, and can only be served for two, but it's worth every single penny. The beef practically melts in the mouth it is so tender, and it's full of rich flavours and juices - it's obviously a very good cut and there's careful handling in the kitchen. It’s served with a generous helping of fat, fluffy chips, salad and a rich, creamy homemade béarnaise sauce for what's undoubtedly one of the stand-out dishes of the menu.

If you have the room - which is doubtful after the beef - then opt for the pear and almond tart. It’s beautifully cooked with a delicate pastry that perfectly showcases the sweetness of the pear and almond filling. However, what really lifts the dish is the salted caramel ice cream, which tempers the sweetness perfectly. Simply delicious.

The Drink
The wine list at Lawn Bistro is large and has a good range of old and new world bottles, including some more unusual regions and grape varieties, which is always good to see. The house wine is a Portuguese bottle, which are often a lot cheaper to buy but are exceptionally good quality for the price as a rule - showing how savvy they are in putting together a well-priced selection that doesn’t compromise on flavour.

The Last Word
Lawn Bistro has a few teething problems to overcome, but when it does it is sure to be a big player on the competitive London restaurant scene. Recommended.
The Lawn Bistro has been reviewed by 2 users
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