Lorelei is one of the last semblances of truth in a Soho that continues to flake to homogenisation, seedy, romantic and sentimental, one can only hint at the heart that thumps within its bosom.

The Venue
With a façade bathed in the colours of the Italian flag and a chipped and discoloured sign, Lorelei doesn’t disguise the halt of inertia that left it firmly in the past. It is unashamedly definitely old Soho, before the chain clones and pop-up junk came along. Inside, a space large enough for several groups and an interior untouched by the hands of time is dimly lit. Formica tables rest on linoleum, and the wooden panelling on the walls looks almost to be propped up by flour bag ballasts. One wall is home to a large mural of the mermaid Lorelei herself, perhaps ready to break into seductive song.

The Atmosphere
Lorelei is not for those that judge success by money, nor should it be for those that cannot spot the romance in a place that boasts a toilet in an outhouse in the yard. Couples share the room with groups sucked in by the BYO policy and families familiar to the owners. It can be both intimate and boisterous, and remains one of the best places in Soho to take a date. Whether they'll appreciate its unique charm is another thing.

The Food
The food is a simple mix of classic Italian staples. Authentic lasagne and bolognaise sauces are rich and plentiful, but pizzas make up the bulk of the menu. The simplicity is matched by the prices, with most pizzas coming in at around £6. The della nonna (spinach, egg and mozzarella) and the alla Napoletana (anchovies, tomato and oregano) are both delightful. Also, get excited by the classic prawn cocktail starter, a winner even from the freezer.

The Drink
With a bring-your-own alcohol policy the possibilities are endless. There is a small corkage charge.

The Last Word
Like the myth that goes with the name, Lorelei is as seductive a place as you’ll come across. Sailors beware.

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