Recently renovated to sumptuous effect, The Mitre brings excellent gastro pub fare, stylish surroundings and a bustling atmosphere to West London.

The Venue
Just down the road from Holland Park tube, The Mitre’s attractive facade sticks its chest out proudly and as well it might, with a few tables out front shaded by a huge awning featuring an elegant motif that hints at what’s inside. It’s undoubtedly stylish, with nouveau-baroque wallpaper, dark, impeccably buffed woods, tasselled lampshades, maroon leather booths and soft lighting making everything feel warm, welcoming and suitably trendy. A horseshoe bar acts as centrepiece, surrounded by a main dining area and a slightly elevated, more intimate area that snakes around the venue’s edge, whilst a busy open kitchen serves up enticing aromas and appetising glimpses of what’s in store.

The Atmosphere
It’s a busy place, benefiting no doubt from both its proximity to Holland Park tube and the nearby BBC offices, so expect to see a mix of well-to-do locals and media types. The size of the venue means it works well for big groups, with after-work drinks attracting exactly those, whilst the more secluded booths enable you to have a little bit of privacy if that’s what you’re after. It’s bustling and vibrant though, with a staff that straddles the line between friendly joviality and efficient professionalism perfectly. It basically achieves what any pub like this aims at, namely being somewhere that’s relaxed and informal yet sophisticated enough for you to expect the food to ape the quality of the surroundings.

The Food
Fully justifying the gastro pub tag, The Mitre serves up good quality fare from a varied and appealing menu with precision and flair. It’s predominantly British, with dishes like roast Berkshire patridge, pork belly, rump of Blackface lamb and roast Gressingham duck flying the patriotic flag on a menu full of excellent produce.

Starters lay testament to this, with scallops (£8.50) gently spiced with turmeric and served on a crispy potato and carrot rosti being a particular highlight. The fish is impeccably cooked, tender and sweet, lifted further by a perfectly balanced orange and coriander butter sauce that’s given an extra bit of depth from peppery cress. Mussels (£6.50) are equally impressive, with huge, plump and flavoursome mussels served in a tangy tomato and thyme sauce with just about enough piquancy from fresh chilli.

Mains continue the impressive theme, with a huge fillet of fresh monkfish (£16.50) roasted with garlic and anchovies, served with new potatoes, superbly al dente winter greens and a zesty lemon butter sauce that helps bring out the sweetness of the meaty fish. The Angus rib-eye steak (£17) is undoubtedly a good cut with a nice layer of fat adding flavour and the whole thing benefiting from delicate cooking in the kitchen, served with a perfect medium-rare pink. The bearnaise sauce is okay but the accompanying mash is excellent – soft, well seasoned, buttery and smooth.

Desserts are worth a try if you’ve got room, not least an exquisite chocolate souffle cake (£5.50) that oozes rich, warm chocolate sauce that goes very well indeed with a dollop of thick clotted cream and berry sauce. The affogato (£5.50) isn’t quite such a success thanks to its faddish deconstructed presentation, making it all a bit cumbersome and surprisingly difficult to get the right balance of espresso, ice cream and fruit bread. Which is a shame as the individual components are excellent, not least the incredible vanilla ice cream.

The Drink
As well as a good range of draught beers that includes the excellent Wandles and Deuchars (£3.50), The Mitre boasts an impressive wine list that offers plenty of choice across a well thought out selection of low to medium-priced bins. The fact that many are available in both by the glass and by the half bottle makes the choice even greater, so whether it’s a decent merlot at £15.20, a frankly excellent rioja at just £18.50 or more pricey options such as the Felton Road pinot noir (£51.00) or a Moss Wood cabernet sauvignon (£58) there are plenty of really good options at prices that represent pretty good value, especially for the area.

The Last Word
A huge improvement on its previous incarnation, The Mitre’s selection of very fine food makes it worth a visit. Throw in its friendly atmosphere and stylish decor and Holland Park can consider itself very lucky indeed.

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