The sophisticated upstairs dining room of The Only Running Footman pub in Mayfair is a fabulous addition to the neighbourhood, serving exquisite contemporary British cuisine.

The Venue
As with a few pubs in this affluent area, The Only Running Footman is free of the modern requirements of your average watering hole such as big screens and quiz machines with the reliance on good old fashioned conservation to keep the ambience alive. This traditional approach continues upstairs in the intimate restaurant where the very thought of piped music would be a vulgar intrusion. The room is warm and inviting with patterned wallpaper and plush carpets yet has adopted a modern approach too with its simplistic furnishings.

The Atmosphere
Arrive here before one in the afternoon and you could find yourself completely alone. Eventually, however, the custom grows and by the evening, this cosy environment becomes quite bubbly, no doubt fuelled by the attentive waiting staff and amazing cuisine.

The Food
Expect the food to be pricey given the locality, with some starters costing as much as the main courses. However, the meals are immaculately presented and the combinations and flavours are beautiful. The terrine of foie gras with green peppercorns is the truly opulent choice on the starter menu with the accompanying wine jelly supplying a sharp fruity zing. The risotto with crispy onion rings and mixed herbs is another satisfying option, with the different herbs creating an exciting variety of flavours.

For a seasonal special, there is salmon fishcake, an exceptional and delightful dish with tender salmon coated in flaky breadcrumbs with a gorgeous runny poached egg on top and covered in smooth and creamy Hollandaise sauce. Other enticing local choices include the Suffolk free range chicken which is complimented superbly by hazelnuts and buttery mashed potatoes. Desserts are also beautifully presented and flavoursome; the rich and creamy cheesecake is baked perfectly with accompanying fruits of the season and the Bakewell Tart tastes like a homemade recipe with a lovely fruity jam, a hint of almond to the sponge and crispy pastry.

The Drink
There is a range of bracing whites on the menu together with a number of Chardonnays from around the world. The red wine list has a choice for every eventuality ranging from the light Fleurie Poncié to the spicy Rioja Seleccion.

The Last Word
This may be a pricey choice but you get what you pay for. The Only Running Footman has made a triumphant impression on Mayfair with its refined setting and exquisite menu. A visit upstairs is highly recommended.

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