Elevating pub meals from the ordinary to extraordinary is no small task, but The Palmerston provides an opportunity to experience rich variations on country fare in an elegant setting.

The Venue
Ideally situated on the corner of Lordship Lane and Northcross Road, The Palmerston has the kind of location usually saved only for country pubs. There are a few roadside tables away from the high street where you can watch the fresh food market stalls on Northcross Road. You can almost always find a few old men lingering outside over their pints. It sets the scene for what you’ll find within.

Inside, scratched dark wood flooring frames a smattering of different chairs and lovingly worn tables. Unfussy spherical lamps dangle above the dark bar, which is panelled with smart, modern interlocking beams of wood that keep things streamlined. Awards are displayed a little garishly overhead and steady chill out tunes create a lull under the conversation of the main room and the sharp sound of silverware from the kitchen.

Spidery black chandeliers hang from the green ceiling of the main dining room and in the dainty rear eating area white mosaic floor tiles provide a sharp, cathedral-like contrast to its shadowy corners. The Palmerston is also a patron of local artists and photographers, using the dark panelling of their main room as a backdrop to an impromptu exhibition space. Quirky, modern art gives the tailored atmosphere pops of colour. All of the artwork is for sale and the artist's name, title and price is printed on neat, white cards underneath.

The Atmosphere
At the height of lunch hour, you'll be greeted by a room full of thirtysomethings, mostly in suits with a few ladies wot lunch enjoying an early glass of wine with friends. Even the working lads standing at the bar seem to have come for the food. Conversely, pint drinkers, groups and couples looking for a candlelit evening seem to flock back for dinner. The servers are unassuming, uncommonly knowledgable, friendly and endearingly shy. And if they don't know the answer to your question, they'll just pop back and have a word with the chef.

The Food
Organic and farmyard fresh ingredients express the pub’s desire to stay firmly affixed at the head of the market. British selections like grilled ox heart or Cornish monkfish stud the ever-changing menu and allow the chef to stand by his promise of utilising local sources as much as possible.

The English asparagus starter comes bathed in a wash of butter and is served with a light, frothy mousse. The truffle, Madeira and smoky bacon sauce served with the roast wood pigeon perfectly foils the bird's gaminess. The bird itself can be a little soggy, but the vegetable accompaniments are perfectly cooked: braised lettuce adds a tang of bitterness to the sweet sauce and the bright green garden peas are unusually fresh and benefit from snips of aromatic mint.

Attend The Palmerston at lunch between 12pm-2.30pm and you can take advantage of the special preset menus - two courses for 11 quid, or three courses for £14.50. Real bargains considering mains are priced at around £15.

The Drink
Cask selections are limited to Harveys Sussex Best Bitter, Taylors Landlord and an occasional guest. Taps are whittled down to foreign classics: Amstel, Leffe Blonde, Heineken, Staropramen, Stella, Becks, Addelstones, Kronenbourg and Guinness Extra Cold. Behind the bar, staples include a couple of cognacs and brandies. However, the greatest variety lies in the wine list where practical centrepieces enjoy equal print space next to more complex species. The entire selection is uncluttered with dregs and lacks missteps.

The Last Word
Quintessentially British, The Palmerston provides an elegant evening stuffed with savouries where you can relax with the upper crust as well as the good ole boys.

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