Finally, Chelsea brushes off its overtly fancy image and goes back to basics with the Penny Black. Expect proper British food that supports small farmers and producers.

The Venue
Although the Penny Black Restaurant is all about simple food with an emphasis on quality, the venue itself does have a certain flair. Located along Fulham Road, the black canopy declares its presence, playing on the monochromatic theme within. This black and white scheme is understated, but is made cosier through some clever decorative embellishments: a lounge-like waiting area when you enter; a flame feature on the gleaming, pristine bar; large pictures depicting random imagery (from postage stamps to sheep); candles on each table set in glass candleholders; and pristine white tablecloths and gleaming tableware. It all comes together to create an overall feeling of glamour and sophistication whilst keeping things simple. Elegantly done.

The Atmosphere
This being Chelsea, you can expect the well-heeled locals to make up the main bulk of the clientele at the Penny Black. From yummy mummies and their kids to groups of friends, colleagues and couples, the crowd is eclectic. The restaurant is very well staffed so you’re never left waiting and everyone seems very knowledgeable about the menu, offering good advice on what wine and food to try, without making you feel overwhelmed by the attention. It’s pitch-perfect service that retains an overall feeling of friendliness whilst embracing the art of efficiency and organisation. A well oiled machine, indeed.

The Food
The menu of British classics at the Penny Black is balanced, and has clearly been carefully put together. A starter of corned beef hash, duck egg and pickled onions (£8) is rustic in its appearance and possibly could do with neatening up, but the homely appeal is charming. The corned beef hash is well textured, if a little salty, but combined with the acidity of the onions and the rich, runny yolk of the egg the saltiness works well in creating a dish packed full of flavour. The mussels with carrots and kohlrabi in a cider and mustard broth (£8) is also well cooked with a generous pile of plump, flavoursome mussels. It’s just a shame that the broth is a little insipid.

The main courses, however, are excellent. Their signature dish of beef Wellington (£29) is a real delight. The beef is perfectly cooked – recommended medium rare – and is pink, tender and full of flavour, complemented by the light pastry covering. Mixed with a delicious, well seasoned potato and celeriac bake to add depth, and lifted in colour with vibrant carrots and broccoli, it’s a dish that is note perfect. Also strong is the Paddington’s duck (£25) – again perfectly cooked to specification to allow for pink, moist duck meat with a delicate richness that works well with an unusual marmalade gravy. Chicken stock potatoes and cauliflower cheese bring it all together.

Desserts round off the selection with an incredible apple snow (£6) – an apple mousse style dessert that’s fresh and light, complemented by rich clotted cream and a sweet shortbread biscuit. The rice pudding with jam (£6) is well textured and delightfully sweet but it’s a little heavy on the cinnamon, especially as it’s not mentioned on the menu as an ingredient. Disappointing if you dislike cinnamon!

The Wine
The wine list is impressive, covering a range of budgets from £18 to over £100. It’s also very well described, divided by flavour and availability by the glass, carafe or bottle allowing for a greater choice. The staff are also very knowledgeable about the selection and able to offer spot-on recommendations based on your food choice. The Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc from South Africa is an excellent choice of white, which is heavy enough to match some of the meatier dishes with peach notes and a buttery finish.

The Last Word
The Penny Black Restaurant is a refreshing addition to Chelsea’s restaurant scene and certainly has a bright future ahead.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (3) image gallery (12) what's on