Celebrity chef Theodore Kyriakou and his team promise an extraordinary Mediterranean experience in Covent Garden, and it doesn’t disappoint.

The Venue
Formerly the Kembles Head Public House, five minutes walk from virtually everywhere, The Real Greek has become so popular that booking is banned and there’s usually a 10-15 minute wait for a table. It doesn’t feel like a chore, though, with 600sq ft of dark wood floor, dome copper lighting, exposed beams and deep red ceiling to admire. The Real Greek have half a dozen venues in London with more on the way - amazing that this dusky, intimate setting is not unique. By the time you’re shown to your seat, you’re already texting friends to recommend.

The Atmosphere
Open from lunch till late, The Real Greek is chock-full most nights, catching the full range of Covent Gardeners from post-work to post-theatre. As a result, it’s a little noisy and squashed at the high stools, but those low dome lamps make it feel like just you and your date. Unfussy, professional waiters repeat your order back to you without a blink (or a notepad) as passers-by peer in longingly and another group of hopefuls replace you at the door.

The Food
Orders arrive on towers of six small white dishes, and with everything around the £3 mark, it’s a great way to share a range of Greek flavours in one sitting. Bypass the olive nibbles and nuts and head straight for tzatziki, a Greek yoghurt and cucumber dish with garlic and mint, the spicy tahini hummus. There are soft vine leaves, succulent honeyed kalamari and the flatbread is soft and warm, perfect for soaking up the onion and lemon juice from the smoked melitzanosalata. The grilled octopus in olive oil and mountain-dried oregano is a little squirmy and ammoniac for most, but the handmade tiropitakia parcels pack a crunchy, salty leek and feta punch. If it all feels a bit tapas-esque and insufficient, try a warm souvlaki kebab and a bowl of chips for good measure.

The not-too-big desserts are also mostly under £4 each. The baklava and kataifi are rich, crunchy, syrupy little squares – try them with a scoop of pistachio ice cream for another few pence. The chocolate mousse cake is seriously dense and dark, and at this point most chocolate fans will conveniently forget the whole sharing thing.

The Drink
A long list of reds, whites, sparkling wines and cocktails is the only thing likely to push you over the £40 mark. An interesting middle-ranger is the spicy, smoky Agiorgitiko, and the Greek Restina is crisp and woody (with “tears of a wood nymph”, no less). The freshly squeezed orange or lemon juice wakes you up, while the raspberry frozen daiquiri (rum, triple sec, raspberry liquor and lime) will kick off another leg if you’re not quite ready to give up your table.

The Last Word
Rumour has it the Kembles Head Public House was Greek-themed, but it seems they’ve been outdone.

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