Greek food needn’t be confined to holidays in the sun. The Real Greek serves it up all over London, and this unusual building is where it all started.

The Venue
Hoxton and Shoreditch is an area that, in recent years, has arguably been more associated with its edgy bars, debauched clubs, guerrilla art events and loft-dwelling residents than its restaurants. This is a reputation in flux, at the moment, as more and more top end eateries move into the area. The Real Greek has weathered all the seismic changes taking place in the area over the last ten years and offers a decent meal at inoffensive prices.

The venue is accessible from Hoxton Square, although you’ll have to traipse round a couple of grimy side streets to enter through the front, unless you want to try and go through the tradesmen entrance. Otherwise, you’re best using the Holiday Inn on Old Street as your landmark, then taking the exit onto Pitfield Street, before taking a right down Brunswick Place which will take you to The Real Greek’s Hoxton Market address.

Inside, it’s a startling space. It used to be Downing Wallace Hall, a community hall that acted as a soup kitchen for impoverished local kids as far back as the 1920s - the staff may even show you the photos – but this philanthropic heritage stopped some time ago. What you will find is a visually interesting space with Victorian-period tiled walls, a large open-plan oval wooden bar with overhanging glass lantern lighting, a spiral staircase and an arched back wall with a pretty mural dedicated to those who lost their lives in the 2nd World War. The overwhelming feeling is if the walls could talk, you’d hear some pretty rum tales.

The Atmosphere
During the week, don’t expect it to be buzzing. Couples, small groups of friends and girlfriends out for an after work treat make up the majority of the customers. The atmosphere is pretty conducive to couples as there’s a warm glow from the lamps and lanterns.

The Food
Food is divided up into two sections: cold and hot mezedes. They suggest that you select three mezedes per person which is more than enough. On the cold menu you will see all the classic dishes: hummus, taramosalata, tzadziki. The dolmades are a good test of a Greek restaurant's mettle and the Real Greek’s don’t disappoint. They come stacked on a metal frame that houses all the plates of the dishes you order. The vine leaves are evidently hand wrapped and taste super-fresh. These dolmades (£3.75) are a particularly sweet variety with lots of sultanas in a mix that skilfully combines them with the pine nuts and sticky rice.

Other cold plates to complement the dolmades are taramosalata (cod roe dip, £3.95) and Santorinian Fava (yellow lentil paste with garlic and herbs, £3.75). These are well balanced and they’re joy to mop up with a portion of the beautifully warm flat bread (£2).

Once the cold dishes are done, you can expect your hot mezedes to appear shortly afterwards. This is not the kind of dining which will take a huge amount of time, although you can happily do it the Greek way by staggering your food and drink orders over a longer period of time.

Given the enjoyment garnered from the cold plates, expectations are high for the hot plates. A mixture of calamari (£5.75), lamb kefte (lamb kebab, £4.95) and king prawns (Antatolian spiced gambas, £5.95), however, are fairly ordinary affairs. The prawns are the best of the three, the meaty consistency of the prawns (served whole with shells, heads and all) has a lingering flavour that is sharpened up by the spices. The minced lamb meat kebab is average, not containing enough seasoning or depth in taste to make you believe it was slowly cooked, and the calamari covered in paprika is overly chewy, making it a bit of a chore to eat towards its conclusion.

Room for dessert? You may well be tempted by the sweet and sticky baklava (£3.75), the home made ice cream (£3) or the Real Greek yoghurt (4.15), which is served with whole walnuts and yet more honey syrup.

The Drink
The house wine from Crete is a perfectly good accompaniment to the food. Both the red and white is £10.50 per 500 ml carafe or £15.50 for a full bottle. The carafes are good if you and your dining companion have different ideas when it comes to ordering. Quite a few of the wines on the menu are available by the glass, starting from £3.75. The more expensive options hail from France, naturally, and Spain. If you’ve ever been to Greece and supped the local wine out of little glass tumblers the house wine will be familiar turf.

There are two beers in bottles, Mythos and San Miguel (£3.30), with one beer, Pilsner Urquell on draft (half: £2.20 / pint: £3.75). Teas, coffees, freshly squeezed juices and fizzy drinks are also available.

The Last Word
A visit to the Real Greek will remind you just how enjoyable Greek food can be.

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