Europe’s biggest urban shopping mall opened in autumn 2008 with no fewer than 50 dining options. As is the way of these things, some will prosper, others will fall by the wayside. The Real Greek surely belongs in the former category. How real it is is a matter of debate – the decor evokes a slick, city centre, boutique hotel rather than a bougainvillea-draped Kos or Rhodes taverna presided over by a plump, proud, smiling husband and wife – but its yummy Greek staples served with a smile at reasonable prices will surely have shoppers coming back time and again.

The Venue
The Real Greek is situated on Westfield’s Southern Terrace alongside stiff competition like Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Thomasina Miers’ Mexican Wahaca and the acclaimed Fire and Stone pizzeria. A large rectangular space accommodates tables and chairs for 130 diners plus 20 perching on bar stools overlooking the obligatory open kitchen. A further 50 to 60 can eat outside beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows at cool, contemporary, moulded white tables with white wicker-style chairs.

Back inside, dark wood floors, tables and chairs, a raised, cosy row of low-backed booths, textured wall coverings and mood lighting all civilise the large, high-ceilinged space. The boutique hotel generation will feel right at home here. The young, friendly, efficient and attractive waiters and waitresses in their black, open-necked shirts and matching aprons might have been plucked straight from a Malmaison or Hotel du Vin.

The Atmosphere
Early weeknights, most tables are taken by young couples and groups of friends. The vibe is buzzing but relaxed, the conversation animated but never loud enough to irritate. How unintimidating, unstuffy and downright welcoming mid-range dining has become in the last few years, and The Real Greek is a perfect example. Judging by the designer and department store bags stowed under the majority of tables, this is already becoming Westfield shoppers’ preferred pit stop.

The Food
The food is divided into sections; cold mezedes (starters), hot mezedes, souvlaki (grilled kebab meat chunks in flatbread), sharers (basically, set meals for two), and salads and sides. Staff are keen to explain to Real Greek virgins that two to three cold mezedes per person to share followed by the same amount of hot mezedes or a souvlaki and a side will satisfy most customers looking for a full meal.

With the cold starters, which arrive theatrically arrayed on a multi-tiered cake stand, a selection of dips with flatbreads (£1.95) and crudites (£1.85) for scooping works best. The generous portion of bread arrives not so much warm as hot, and is gratifyingly crisp without and soft within. Unusually in these days of mass agricultural production, the cucumber batons in the crudites are bitter, but their carrot and celery equivalents are fine. Koliosalata (£4) is a delightful mackerel dip tasting simply and deeply of its fish, reminiscent of the mackerel or kipper pate a million Home Counties 1970s dinner party hostesses turned out (and none the worse for that). Htipiti (£3.50) is a sweet, moreish, coarse puree of feta and roasted red peppers and onions.

Things continue well when the hot mezedes arrive. Tiropitakia (filo parcels of spinach, leeks and feta, £3.50) are hard to fault: they are piping hot, substantial and comforting with oozing cheese and shredded, still slightly crunchy leeks. It’s worth pushing the boat out for a skewer of three spiced prawns at £6. These juicy, hefty specimens, perfectly cooked and lightly spiced, are sure to transport you back to Mediterranean holidays.

Souvalkis are cubes of chargrilled meat with tzatziki wrapped in a warm flatbread. From a selection including lamb, minced lamb, chicken, beef, Armenian beef sausage, and vegetables, pork souvlaki is good value at £5.75. Presenting it held together with a paper wrapper printed with the restaurant’s name might be a nod too far towards downmarket burger bars, but there’s no faulting the lip smacking contents: the pork cubes are tender, juicy and delightfully charred, whilst melting onions add sweetness. A healthy and hearty side of warm horta salad (£3.95) features rocket, spinach, earthy chunks of beetroot and a big wedge of salty feta.

Eleven dessert options include baklava (honeyed pastries, £3.75) and Greek yoghurt with intriguing preserved whole walnuts in honey syrup (£4.15). For those who feel they’ve been in Greece long enough, there’s chocolate mousse cake (£5.95), ice creams or sorbets (both £3). From a selection of chocolate, vanilla, strawberry or pistachio ice cream, the chocolate is immensely chocolate-y and super-smooth. Raspberry sorbet (lemon and passion fruit are also available) is equally intense and silky. They arrive unadorned in chilled, cloudy bowls and would hold their own at far swankier an establishment.

The Drink
About ten whites and reds and a couple of roses include several from Greece, plus choices from Italy, France, Australia and Chile for the less adventurous. Prices rise from £15.50 to a comparatively modest £49.95 for top-of-the-shop Nicolas Potel Gevrey Chambertin ‘Les Charmeusers’, Burgundy, France. Commendably, 11 are available by the 175 or 250ml glass, and a couple by the half litre. Five sparkling options, the cheapest available by the glass, range from Preece Chardonnay/Pinot Noir from Australia at £24.95 to Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque: Epernay champagne at £99.

Only one dessert wine is available and it’s a Greek red, a bold move which comes off brilliantly. Mavrodaphne (£3/£15) arrives well-chilled, packed with red berry flavours and fits perfectly with the fun, casual atmosphere. Unsurprisingly, fresh mint tea (£1.95) and Greek coffee (thoughtfully available in three levels of sweetness/bitterness, £2.50) appear amid the usual after-dinner suspects.

The Last Word
Chef Theodore Kyriakou opened the first branch of The Real Greek in Hoxton in 1999. There are now eight, and it’s not hard to see why the concept has prospered when you can enjoy a trio of mezedes, a juicy meat main and half a bottle of reasonable wine and be out of the door for under £30. No more does Greek food in Britain mean pappy taramosalata, dodgy kebabs and theatrical plate-smashing, nor does it have to been dished up in a cliched copy of that dear little taverna you kept returning to in Mykonos or Corfu. Expect the Greek invasion to continue!

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