The Star Cafe in the heart of Soho celebrated its 75th birthday in 2008, so if anywhere can claim to be a legend in its own lunchtime, it is the Star. It is well named because it is a star among cafes, a cut above most of the classics of its kind.

The Venue
It has occupied its Soho corner site since 1933, and from the look of the place it hasn’t changed much in 75 years - and why should it? The cafe has its regular clientele who come in for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. Essentially a daytime business, the Star also opens its cocktail bar, The Star at Night, which also has a DJ.

The Atmosphere
The decor is pleasingly pre-war with the walls covered in those evocative enamel boards advertising the likes of Lyons tea, Colman’s mustard, Hudson’s soap, Robin cigarettes and Spratt’s dog biscuits. There’s even a KP peanut vending machine offering nuts at two old pence a bag. This nostalgic trip down memory lane is half the joy of going to the Star Cafe and when it’s busy – most days – you can palpably feel the customers enjoying themselves. It does have a great buzz and it’s all done without any fancy computer tills. Your order goes on a hook with the table number – it’s as easy as that.

The Food
The rest of the enjoyment obviously comes from the food and prominent on the menu is the all-day breakfast in various combinations, Star Special, Veggie Star, Star American (ham, eggs, black pudding and fries) and smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. The Termineator (geddit?), with two fried eggs, two sausages, two rashers, mushrooms, tomato, baked beans and fries, is just as it should be. Why do fry-ups always taste better when somebody else does the frying? It is a big breakfast and big lunch combined and all for under £7.50. There are also omelettes (with a choice of ham, cheese, mushroom, roasted peppers, smoked salmon or smoked haddock, or indeed any combination of any of the fillings).

The Star also does daily specials, including penne with roasted peppers, a huge plateful of the pasta with a luscious vegetarian sauce. Club sandwiches, hot baguettes or ciabattas plus salads and side orders fill out a surprisingly lengthy menu. If you can manage a dessert, try the bread and butter pudding is a toothsome treat, all soft and mushy, packed with fruit and served with the creamiest custard. The apple crumble is similarly comforting and no doubt the syrup pudding is just as good too.

The Drink
Quite a large cup of tea is only £1.45, most coffees are £2, and there’s also beer (Spanish, Italian, Czech and Japanese), soft drinks, juices and mineral waters. House wine is from £2.75 a glass, £12.95 a bottle and there’s another short list of reds, whites and rose rising to around £27, plus a few bottles of bubbly.

The Last Word
After 75 years in the business the Star Cafe reckons that they are “maybe, just maybe doing something right.” In an area that is forever changing and taking on the latest in new food fads, it’s good to see at least one place sticking to its guns and doing exactly what it has always done – serve good wholesome food at reasonable prices in a congenial atmosphere.

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