The ViewLondon Review
A good night out in Clapham doesn’t end at the high street, as a trip slightly off the beaten track to The Stonhouse proves.The VenueBeing just off the high street isn’t a problem when it comes to getting the punters into a good venue in Clapham, as anyone who has been to The Bread and Roses will attest. Nestled just around the corner from the B and R is The Stonhouse and it doesn’t need anyone standing on the main road holding a sign with an arrow to attract a smart crowd. The transformation of the place is amazing when you consider its roots. The Stonhouse used to be one of those venues you went in once because it was a proper old-school pub and came out of wishing you’d gone to a chain instead. These days it’s a smartly laid out room, based around a central bar, with the kitchens hidden away upstairs. Even the toilets are clean and functional – a double whammy few venues seem able to deliver.
The AtmosphereBuzzing is the right word. Even early-week the place is busy, showing it’s not just a weekend retreat. That’s down to its unpretentious and relaxed look, which makes you feel at home whether you’ve come for the normal bar or the gastro delights. Despite the busy atmosphere, the waiting staff seat new diners quickly and it is possible to sneak onto a table without a booking. The popularity never spills over too far to lose the venue’s friendly edge, though.
The FoodFirst glance at the menu shows that traditional dishes such as sausage and mash are available (coming in at just under a tenner) but The Stonhouse outclasses cheap and cheerful pub grub. The slightly more cultured menu doesn’t mean poncy food, though, just good quality ingredients served well.
Starters will set you back from around £5-8, with a rich choice on offer – eggs benedict and parma ham; fois gras terrine; herb crusted scallops. Even the Cornish crab cakes are well complemented by a lemon and basil mayonnaise, showing simple dishes have a touch of flair.
As for the main courses, the steak is well cooked – not well done, well cooked – and it cuts so easily that it is almost overkill to use a steak knife. And the generous dollop of creamy mash will brush aside any fears raised by the starters that portions will be small. The selection does have one Achilles heel and that’s the vegetarian selection. This is limited on the main menu and the veggie options are cheese-heavy. That is tempered by the fact that the daily specials are likely to contain a vegetable dish (such as curried parsnip soup), and also partly overcome because the kitchen is willing to take requests for alterations to dishes.
The pudding selection generally treads more familiar pub routes, offering sticky toffee pudding and a selection of ice cream alongside more exotic raspberry creme brulee. The huge chunk of banoffee pie - big enough to share - delivers a soft, delicious topping with a suitably crunchy base.
If you’re in the area for lunch, there’s also a quick menu with one course for just over £5 and two for just under a tenner.
The DrinkWine starts at around £12 a bottle, rising steadily up to hiqher quality choices for around £30. These are well complemented by a good selection of cocktails (including six martinis) ranging from around £3-8. European lagers and some choice beers round things off; however, if you’re there for dinner, stick to the wine – recommended is the rich and floral Sicilian red from the less expensive end of the list.
The Last WordThe Stonhouse is a great blend of traditional pub with wholesome restaurant. While it comes highly recommended just for drinks, how you’ll manage to avoid springing for a meal when you’re surrounded by such wondrous smells is a mystery!
The Stonhouse has been reviewed by 5 users