153 Battersea Park Road,
Battersea Park,
London,
SW8 4BX
0872 148 3246
The ViewLondon Review
An Italian restaurant with Italian owners, Italian ingredients and Italian customers: a perfect trio creating a unique, delicious combination.The VenueMany wouldn’t think to head to Battersea for a wonderful Italian meal. It’s on the wrong side of the river, in a dull area that’s full of dirty concrete with no character, so why make the trek when you have such lovely Italian restaurants in Central London? Well you’d be wrong, as Three Bridges serves up exceptional dishes without the heavy price tag but instead with lots of Italian pizzazz that makes the experience irresistible.
The decor seems slightly dated, yet it’s simple, chic and most importantly cosy. Dark green and pale yellow create warm tones throughout the restaurant, with modern copper light fixtures to add a dash of cool. The furniture is a rich golden teak that contrasts the stainless steel of the open bakery, where diners can watch their bread being freshly made. There’s not a hint of unnecessary frills or extras to make the place more posh, just a restaurant that strikes a good balance between sophistication and comfort.
The AtmosphereThe people of Battersea tend to venture into London to have their evening feasts, leaving very few in the area that are bothered to try this low key restaurant, making the number of customers lower than deserved. However those who do give it a go are clearly pleasantly surprised, as their expectations of an ordinary meal are demolished as they sample the food, which is evident by the joyous praise they dish out to the staff. They are extremely warm and friendly which only adds to the relaxing feeling of the place, and if you ask, their passion for good food and wine comes through, giving you interesting details about the food and matching the wine perfectly. Making up the bulk of the clientele are charming Italians, coming from all over London enjoy the food. The instant vibrancy they add to the atmosphere is palpable and reassures that the chef must know what he’s doing.
The FoodSet out like a classic Italian meal, the menu comprises of Antipasti offering light bites, Primi Platti which mainly consists of pasta dishes, Secondi Platti to add a dose of meat to the meal, plus some Pizzas of course, and Dolce, the delectable sweets to finish the meal. The prices for mains are around £14, with starters and desserts coming in at around £6. There are many typical Italian dishes such as mozzarella and tomato salad or a margarita pizza, but it’s the unusual combinations that will challenge your taste buds and make your meal special. All the ingredients are sourced from Italy, meaning the quality of flavour is exceptional, from the light and refreshing Prosecco to the clean, peppery olive oil, giving you an authentic Italian experience.
The calamari antipasti has shed its usual crispy batter in favour of a light tomato sauce that has a hint of sweetness that brings out the natural flavour of the baby squid, which is very fresh and has a soft, chewy texture. The smoked salmon is also a delicate treat as it’s served with purple onions that are sweetly caramelised, and a drizzle of olive oil infused with orange and grapefruit to add tart and bitter notes to the smoked fish, topped off with a creamy quail’s egg. The smoked mozzarella dish packs more of a punch, and the combination of salty mozzarella with sweet charred aubergine, courgettes and tomato is simplicity at its best.
Pizza fans won’t be disappointed, with plenty of options, all with a fresh, crisp base, it’s hard to complain. The most daring yet tasty topping has to be the red mullet caviar with tallegio cheese. It may sound very strange, but the tiny orange pearls of subtle saltiness combined with creamy cheese is an effective match, as neither ingredient overpowers the taste buds. The homemade pasta is a choice that’s well worth it, and the black squid ink pasta is cooked well to al dente and is served with a light buttery sauce with a fresh crab meat, crunchy courgettes and soft tomato to add a medley of textures to the dish.
For mains, the duck is cooked to medium rare to ensure the honey-glazed pink flesh stays tender. The accompanying rhubarb and prunes add just the right amount of fruity tartness and deep sweetness to complement the rich duck flavour. The pan fried sea bass has a flaky fresh consistency that when combined with the soft potato mash and the spicy kick of chorizo creates a wonderfully light and gently flavoured dish.
The desserts are nicely presented and aren’t overwhelmingly sweet. A cocktail glass of sweet prunes are soaked in brandy has a heady alcoholic burst that is calmed by the creamy vanilla ice cream, creating an overall flavour that cleanses the palate. Those who like limoncello will love the zabaglione which is brought to you in a cute coffee cup. It’s thick and creamy with sharp finish of the limoncello it’s infused with, giving it a delicious citrus zing.
The DrinkThe wine list is of course mostly Italian wines, and there are some wonderful finds that wine buffs and amateurs alike will appreciate. The blush Pinot Grigrio has a soft fruity flavour and its very light, making it easily drinkable alone as well as with seafood. There are also drier white wines with a sharp refreshing finish and robust reds that complement the more powerful dishes. For a traditional Italian meal, definitely start with the impeccable Prosecco as an aperitif, and finish the meal with a sipped shot of limoncello, to really do it as the Italians do.
The Last WordIf the Three Bridges was in a better location, the customers would be queuing out of the door, so support this local wonder that creates remarkably good Italian food in a comforting environment that evokes the essence of Italy.