The Union Chiswick

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Venue Image
Chiswick Park,
Building 5, 566 Chiswick High Road,,
Chiswick,
London,
W4 5YA

(0208) 995 9056

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byPru Engel09/03/2009
Great food, sleek decor and versatile, friendly surroundings transcend the difficulties of an unlikely location for the Union Chiswick.

The Venue
Set in the futuristic surrounds of a giant, spacious and immaculate business development between Chiswick Park and Gunnersbury tube stations, the Union Chiswick is in an odd location. Tucked out of the way, it's frequented mostly by office workers from the neighbouring buildings. The office park it is in comes complete with a lake, gushing waterfall and decked boardwalk so it’s a pleasant backdrop (and the outdoor area the bar opens out onto comes in handy in the summer). The free car parking behind the venue is also a bonus.

Inside, you’ll find an airy bar with a refined, sexy decor: think polished floorboards, scattered tables, comfy booths, and a wide open area for dining. Look up to see the darkened ceiling scattered with twinkling fairylights and star-shaped light fixtures.

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect from a bar in a business park, Friday nights at the Union Chiswick are the busiest, with post-work partygoers kicking off their weekend. Thursday nights also pack a lively crowd, with a mix of drinkers and diners of all ages enjoying a laid back soundtrack including everything from The Kooks, Keane and the Red Hot Chilli Peppers to Blue Swede. DJs and live bands are set to start playing gigs soon, which will inject a further party vibe.

The Food
The good news if you work in the business park here is you don’t have to go any further afield than the Union Chiswick to get a decent bite to eat. The food here is restaurant quality and there’s a dazzling array of choices on the menu. Although the mix of cuisines is slightly confusing, at least there’s something for everyone.

Start with a giant platter of rustic olive and rosemary bread with balsamic oil (£3.95), then move on to the delicious warm seafood salad (£7.95) with succulent squid, tiger prawns and scallops bathed in a sweet and smoky oriental sauce with sauteed pak choy and leaves. Starters with a modern British influence include a mild and tasty deep fried goats’ cheese matched perfectly with sweet red onion marmalade and a peppery rocket salad, and a polenta and char-grilled vegetable stack. There’s also the requisite soup of the day and, a little randomly, quiche Lorraine.

Mains range from an admirable £8.95-£15.96 and include a mix of cuisines: red Thai chicken curry (£9.95) sits alongside the rich caramelised Barbary duck breast with juicy sauteed red cabbage and red currant jus (£12.95). Robust favourites such as sausage and mash, lamb shank and rib eye steak also feature for meat lovers whilst vegetarians don’t find many options. If you’re just after party snacks, there is a selection of tapas and mezze from £2.95.

Make sure you leave room for pudding, as the raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake with Chantilly cream (£4.50) is stunning – leaving you with a gorgeous creamy aftertaste of indulgent white chocolate. The chocolate brownie is also a rich, gooey treat.

The Drink
The wine list has a wide selection of reds and whites helpfully organised into tasting categories. French drops feature heavily, although a Redfin Shiraz Grenache from South Australia (£18) is a delicious full-bodied option with an elegant and deep, fruity aroma. Other tipples range from £13.50-£32 (£3.50-£6.25 a glass).

On tap there’s Heineken, Amstel, Peroni, Kronenbourg and Guinness, and if you’re looking for something fruity there are classic cocktails with no surprises on offer from £5-£6.50.

The Last Word
The Union Chiswick has got all the ingredients right, and if you can get past the challenging location it is well worth the trek.
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