You can barely go five yards in south west London without hitting a gastro pub, however, few are as delightful as The Victoria in East Sheen. So go grab your A-Z and venture deep into suburban territory.

The Venue
Situated in the heart of suburbia this Victorian pub is very much a local’s local. With a handful of guest rooms, a large comfy bar and a roaming garden (complete with a children’s play area and climbing frame) this could almost be a proper country ale-house. Set back from the Upper Richmond Road, it’s a 20 minute schlep from Mortlake station, however once you arrive you are greeted by a cosy pub and bustling dining room and aromas of the great food to come.

The decor is stylishly minimalist with cream walls, huge burnished leather sofas and shiny brass pipes. The main dining area is situated in the conservatory, an airy space which overlooks the garden. Lampshades the size of lorry wheels dominate the room and the odd vase of designer flowers gives the place a light, contemporary feel. What’s really nice about The Victoria is that it hasn’t been packed to the rafters with tables so everyone has enough space to relax rather than feeling like your sitting on your neighbour’s knee. The bar is just as enticing with cosy hideaways and more comfy sofas. For those too full/tipsy to drive home, there’s a handful of stylish guest rooms upstairs for an overnight stay.

The Atmosphere
The Victoria is very popular with the locals of East Sheen. Surrounded by roads of smart semi-detached houses, it would be rude not to enjoy such gastro-treats on your doorstep. Despite its stylish interior The Victoria is very family-friendly with a dedicated kids’ menu (devised with input from chef Paul Merrett’s 12-year-old daughter) and a huge garden. The evenings are generally kid-free making way for local residents who come for a fancy late supper or to entertain visitors. The staff are nice and friendly yet not too attentive, leaving diners to relax into their meals. Despite the ambient banter you can still make out the chilled tunes which gently flood the room giving the place a nice, vibrant atmosphere.

The Food
The menu here at The Victoria is short but oh-so sweet with just a handful of starters, mains and desserts on offer. If you go in with your pub-grub head on it all seems a little pricy, however, the food is excellent making the prices very reasonable for the quality. On a Monday and Tuesday the two for £10 offer is popular and offers diners two courses for a very reasonable tenner, offered for both lunch and dinner and changing frequently depending on what’s available. For starters, give the spiced chicken bhuna salad (£7) a try as it tastes just as good as it sounds. Fresh, crisp little gem lettuce is topped with warm nuggets of spicy chicken and little crispy onion bhajis, each with a soft, sweet oniony centre. A scattering of grilled courgettes and roasted tomatoes are then drizzled with a fresh mint yoghurt dressing. It is truly delicious. The butternut squash chowder, a steal at £5, with fresh chilli, coconut and coriander is so comforting it’s like a great big spicy duvet in a bowl. The gloriously orange soup has just the right texture and a nice bite of chilli to keep it interesting.

For a main course, the fillet of sea trout with asparagus and crushed new potatoes (£13.50) is really quite exceptional. A dish of crispy, pan-fried trout arrives on a bed of rough mash and a swirl of lemony foam, then finished off with three perfectly cooked spears of asparagus and a battered rock oyster sat on the side like a posh prawn ball. It has a range of flavours lasting right through to the very last mouthful. The char grilled pork chop (£14) is served with Turkish aubergine, a creamy garlic tzatziki and three homemade pita breads. A large wooden platter arrives with a thick, char-streaked chop which is juicy and well cooked. The tzatziki and aubergine, which has just a hint of spice, are quite unusual but nonetheless delicious accompaniments to the meat.

For desserts, again just a handful on offer, but thankfully they all are pretty fantastic. The chocolate and peanut brownie cookies with peanut butter ice cream and white chocolate sauce (£5) is truly heavenly. A tower of three handmade chocolate and peanut cookies are topped with a scoop of buttery peanut ice cream and then drizzled with chocolate sauce. For those more virtuous, try the fresh Alfonso mango with lime, mango sorbet and served with mango lassi (£5). Ripe cubes of sweet mango are served with a smooth ball of soft, sweet sorbet and a shot glass of fragrant fruit lassi. It’s the complete dietary antithesis of the cookie dessert but it’s just as fabulous.

The Drink
The Victoria’s nicely rounded wine list is compiled by effervescent wine buff Olly Smith. He has chosen the wine list specifically to go with chef Paul Merrett’s eclectic menu and has divided the choices into styles such as fresh and fruity and rich and spicy. House wines start at £15 a bottle for a very reasonable Cuvee le Duc (the house white) or Chispas Syrah (the house red), or try a nice yet not too buttery Chilean chardonnay (£16) which works well with both the pork and the fish dishes.

There is a small selection of fizz on offer for those celebratory moments (like, it’s a Monday) including the distinctly British Ridgeview cuvee at £36 a bottle. For non-wine lovers the bar offers all the usual suspects including Timothy Taylor Landlord ale and London Pride both on tap.

The Last Word
The Victoria in East Sheen puts the gastro back into gastro pub. It excels at offering exceptionally tasty and well thought out dishes at reasonable prices. Recommended.

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