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The Londoner's Guide to London
06 July 2008
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The Zetter

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St Johns Square,
86-88 Clerkenwell Road,
Clerkenwell,
London,
EC1M 5RJ

0872 148 1051 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMichelle Court16/10/2007
Trendy restaurants in Clerkenwell are a dime a dozen, but The Zetter’s friendly atmosphere and creative food ensure that it stands out from the crowd.

The Venue
The Zetter is a boutique hotel, bar and restaurant in Clerkenwell. It’s built in a circular shape, the restaurant is up a spiral staircase in the centre of the reception area, with the bar on the left and the restaurant curled around it on the right. The walls are exposed brick that’s been painted white, with swirly splotches of colour, whilst the rest of the decor is minimal: white tablecloths, black chairs and circular black light fixtures. If you get a table towards the back you can try and sneak a peek in at the kitchen and see the chefs at work.

The Atmosphere
Clerkenwell restaurants have a reputation for being excessively trendy, and though The Zetter certainly looks like it can hold court with the hippest restaurants in the neighbourhood, the atmosphere is anything but. The staff are incredibly sweet and helpful, and the rest of the customers are a mix of hip artsy types and out-of-towners doing a bit of destination dining.

The Food
The menu changes monthly based on the availability of seasonal ingredients, but you can be guaranteed fresh modern European dishes with an inventive and slightly rustic edge. Although slightly pricey – starters hover at about £7.00 and mains at about £12.00 for pastas and £16.00 for meats and fish – the food is carefully prepared and you can tell that a lot of thought has gone into the dishes.

The starter of garlic roast prawns with chorizo is wonderfully tender and the chorizo perfectly spiced - the honey-glazed pork belly that accompanies it is so well cooked that it practically falls apart at the touch of the fork. Another starter of antipasto has perfectly proportioned sections of cheese, olives and vegetables, as well as crispy-battered cod croquettes. Mains give you the choice of pastas, risottos, fish and meat. The grilled fillet of sea bass comes with a nicely balanced potato and crayfish salad, whilst the Argentinean beef rump is a generous cut of meat topped with a slab of Porcini mushroom butter and accompanied by a side order of spinach and creamy Gorgonzola cheese – not particularly healthy, but definitely delicious. Choice desserts include a redcurrant and pistachio tart served with Greek yoghurt sorbet and a slightly tart lime cheesecake that comes with a splash of stewed plums and a subtly sweet white peach sorbet.

The Drink
Many of the dishes on The Zetter’s menu have wine recommendations, which can be helpful if you don’t know your Merlots from your Bordeauxs. Prices are high at an average of £35.00 per bottle, but there are a couple choices around £20.00 if you’re watching you budget.

The cocktail list is vast and creative, with all the classic choices (martinis, Cosmopolitans and daiquiris) as well as the more interestingly-named Tennessee Tart (Jack Daniels, Amaretto, passion fruit, apple juice and muddled physalis), Passione (a mix of vanilla vodka, passion fruit, lime juice and brown sugar) and Clementine, Oh My Darling, which is a sweet citrus-y concoction with Cachaca, Grand Marnier and Mandarine Napoleon liquer mixed with fresh orange and lemon juice.

The Last Word
If you’re looking for a hip restaurant that lives up to the hype, The Zetter is a perfect balance of creative and cool.
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