Tiffinbites Russia Row brings the growing chain’s modern take on traditional Indian cuisine to the area’s sandwich-fatigued workers.

The Venue
Tucked away in an unprepossessing side road between Bank and Cannon Street stations, the restaurant makes full use of its corner site by employing considerable amounts of glass walling, meaning plenty of natural light by day and a pleasing sense of space by night.

The interior has a contemporary feel to it that matches the demands of the smartly dressed diners from the banks and corporate offices nearby. Exposed steel beams and air vents line the ceiling, adding a vaguely post-modern air to the place, especially when mixed with the vibrantly decorated walls, sumptuously lined banquettes and semi-ironic Bollywood films on show. In another touch of the now, part of the kitchen is hidden from view whilst the rest is prominently integrated into the dining room itself so that diners can interact with the chefs tending their tandoors.

The Atmosphere
This is somewhere for a relatively speedy, informal eating experience, not a long drawn out meal. The vibe is therefore upbeat, the service personal yet efficient, and the presence of chefs preparing food in front of customers adds a welcome dose of theatre to the equation.

The Food
Tiffinbites takes its name from India’s tradition of tiffin boxes - round metal serving dishes that are particularly practical for lunchtime takeaways. The basic concept is therefore one of home cooked, everyday Indian food. Spices are roasted and ground in-house, making for time consuming yet ultimately rewarding work. In a further move to distinguish themselves from typical English curry house cooking, every plate that comes out of the kitchen contains less than 10 percent fat. This means no ghee (clarified butter) and a strictly limited use of oil.

The paneer cheese jalfrezi starter from the chef’s Flavour of the Month menu is a carb-free, delicately flavoured way to kick things off with the spices doing just enough to bring the cheese alive in the mouth. An aloo tuk chaat meanwhile shows how versatile chickpeas can be when an Indian chef gets hold of them, especially with some punchy coriander and tamarind chutneys alongside. Chicken tikka masala is an unexpected, if commercially sensible inclusion on such an authentic menu. This version involves marinated chunks of breast meat that have been gently roasted in the tandoor before being combined with their light, creamy sauce. Although not the spiciest of curries, this is one that will genuinely set the taste buds tingling, a sure sign that those homemade spice pastes are earning their keep. Desserts are also worth a look, with the gulab jamun in particular, a hot cake-like dumpling served with flavoured sugar syrup, providing a rich and rather unusual finale.

The Drink
Mango lassis are made from imported Indian alphonso mangoes, making for a vibrantly fruity drinks option. Homemade masala chai is earthy and comforting with hints of cardamon and nutmeg, while there is also a wide range of moderately priced cocktails as well as four bottles of both white and red wine, all at £20.00 or under.

The Last Word
This branch of Tiffinbites is most likely counting on the custom of the two adjacent office blocks under construction for its success; despite drawing largely from Indian gastro-heritage therefore, it remains a bravely forward thinking enterprise that well deserves a visit.

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