If you’ve never experienced Ethiopian food, you’re missing out. Head north to Tobia for some traditional, authentic Ethiopian cuisine.

The Venue
Tobia is located on the first floor of an Ethiopian Community Centre just off Finchley Road – not exactly the poshest of locations but one that serves the restaurant well. The front entrance’s message board is papered with fliers and there’s a nursery towards the back. Up a flight of stairs and to the left is Tobia – if you’re not sure where you’re going, just head towards the amazing smell of food.

The actual restaurant is divided into two sections, the main area with run-of-the-mill tables, chairs and white tablecloths, and a side wing with traditional Ethiopian restaurant seating: low couches covered with blankets and four round tables that look like they’re made out of woven straw – when covered, they kind of look like they’re wearing a sombrero.

The Atmosphere
Tobia isn’t trying to be anything it’s not – it’s not a restaurant with a celebrity chef and designer decor. There are a couple of touches that give the place a bit warmer feel, like posters, photographs and tapestries, but there’s really nothing they can do about the fact that it’s located in a community centre – and looks like it. That’s not quite the point though, as Londoners aren’t exactly flocking to Finchley Road to see and be seen. On a Saturday night you can expect Tobia to be packed full, with most people heading for the buffet and a few grouped around the coveted low seats and round tables. Service is friendly and knowledgeable, and staff treat the customers like everyone’s a regular.

The Food
Beginners to Ethiopian food will no doubt be confused. No utensils are needed as every part of your meal is scooped up with enjera, a spongy, lemony-tasting pancake made out of teff, a gluten-free Ethiopian grain. The enjera holds everything without getting soggy and its slightly sharp lemon flavour enhances every dish. In keeping with the traditions of the Ethiopian Coptic Church, the restaurant is vegan on Wednesdays and Fridays, although on other days vegetarians should have no problems choosing dishes.

If you’re unsure what to order, or how to pick the best combination of dishes, the recommended suggestion is the tiksha platter. It’s recommended for two people, but it could probably feed three if everyone has an appetiser as well. For £25 you get ten dishes spooned onto a large round piece of enjera (the exact size of the round tables), including: a creamy lamb dish (some pieces on the bone) in brown sauce; a cool and minty polenta; a spicy mix of brown lentils; raw tuna in a slightly spiced, thin brown sauce; vegetables (well-cooked carrots, nicely salted green beans and fluffy potatoes); pale yellow and creamy chickpeas; cracked wheat in clarified butter; strips of beef with green and white onions; a moreish, smoky chicken leg on the bone and a hard-boiled egg. Nearly all of the dishes have a bit of spice to them, but it’s not quite the sweat-inducing spice that you’d find in a curry – it’s more of a warming spice that works its way throughout your body.

Of the ten dishes in the tiskha platter, the standouts are the chicken and chickpeas, which are both so moreish that you will have to hold yourself back from eating too much at once. The only disappointment is the tuna, or Ethiopian sushi, as the vinegar-y sauce overpowers the flavour of the fish. If you have any leftovers, it’s very easy to imagine yourself gathering up the enjera like a sack, swinging it over your shoulder and taking it home – probably not advisable though.

Although this main meal is the basis of Ethiopian cuisine, there are a few starters and desserts available. For starters, the yekeyesere-denech selata (refreshing slices of beetroot and crisply cooked potatoes in a spicy grain mustard sauce) and yabesha enkulal tibis (a fluffy omelette cooked with spinach and a tangy chickpea sauce) are both good choices. Ethiopian cuisine isn’t really one for desserts, but there’s a fruit salad available, with strawberries, apples, apricots, grapes and bananas mixed in a honey sauce, as well as a mixture of lemon, mango and raspberry sorbets. Nothing fancy, but it does the job well if you’re still peckish after your mains.

The Drink
The wine list is reasonably long, with prices ranging from about £12 to about £36. The house red, a French Cuvee de Richard Red, is a deep purple-y colour; it’s easy to drink and should complement both meat and vegetable dishes. Soft drinks, liqueurs and beers are available as well as Champagnes, with everything from a £2.25 bottle of Ethiopian beer to a £130 bottle of Dom Perignon.

The Last Word
Recommended for both experts and beginners in Ethiopian cuisine. Bring friends and eat at one of the traditional tables for a real community experience.

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