Affordable and delectable traditional Japanese fare in Central London.

The Venue
Situated steps away from the already bustling Piccadilly Circus is the crowded Japan Centre. Within this three-storey establishment sits a well-stocked supermarket (basement), a travel bookstore (first floor), and, sandwiched in between, Toku, a no-frills Japanese restaurant. As you make your way from Piccadilly Circus, it is easy to spot the petite but prominent red, white and black Japan Centre sign that hangs on the facade of the building. However, it is even easier to wade alongside London's Japanese residents and tourists through the crowds. Before you know it, you would be pressing against the heavy glass doors to get through to the cosy red-walled confines of Toku.

The Atmosphere
The concept of Toku is reminiscent of a pint-sized Tokyo department store restaurant, less the endless cases of fake food that line the entrance. The interior decor is simple but chic, providing for a homely Japanese atmosphere that does away with the usual customs. There is never a slow moment in Toku, and the service staff are always eager to jump to the needs of the packs of professionals, students and tourists.

The Food
The sign that hangs on the wall separating the kitchen from the dining area states that, where possible, the ingredients used in the dishes are organic and low in pesticide. In addition, most ingredients are shipped directly from Japan, and the miso soup is made from scratch. Food miles and labour are of less consequence here; they have their eye on advancing towards becoming a fully organic restaurant. And the au naturel philosophy does pay off - the evidence is in the dishes themselves.

For example, the integrity of the heady miso broth is a result of painstaking labour and fresh ingredients. The soup is cloudy and aromatic, with a plump aftertaste of bonito, and is served with silky cubes of tofu or chewy pieces of dried tofu skin, depending on what is available. Toku does well by offering free refills of the miso soup with the Teishoku set meals. Similarly, the donburis (£11 to £13), depending on what you order, are served with fresh slices of raw salmon, well-marinated strips of beef, and beautifully grilled pieces of eel. The rice is often sticky and supple, and portions are generous.

The Drink
The menu starts off with a long list of sake, and gradually eases into the Asian beers and finally dishes. Although the green tea occupies a tiny spot in the menu, it is not only the safest but also the best bet at Toku; made with freshly chopped leaves, it gives off a raw but healthy and authentic flavour unobtainable in dried packaged tea leaves.

The Last Word
Organic-aspirer Toku offers a Tokyo-style bang for the buck in both quality and quantity. If the prices are still too taxing on the wallet, head to the supermarket downstairs for some superior takeout.

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