If Queenstown Road is the Champs Elysees of Battersea, then chef Tom Ilic is certainly in the right place. His fine French fare at friendly prices is well worth avoiding the Eurostar for.

The Venue
Situated on the busy Queenstown Road, Tom Ilic's venture into SW8 is so new the ink has barely dried on the menus. The spacious dining room is divided into two and is separated by long charcoal drapes, making it perfect for both large groups as well as more intimate bookings. There's a small bar at the back, enabling time for a pre-dinner drink overlooking the main room. The decor, borrowed from its previous owners, is currently a muted oatmeal-stroke-terracotta affair which is neutral although a little dated, and is all due to change over the coming months.

The Atmosphere
Tom Ilic has the relaxed, informal atmosphere of a local neighbourhood restaurant. The staff are friendly and attentive and keen to describe each dish in detail. The well-chosen background music gives the place a modern, trendy vibe, without the airs and graces of similar venues.

The Food
The menu is short, sweet and oh-so French. Starters include Tom's famous braised pig cheeks served with chorizo which is, for such an extravagant dish, a cracking bargain at £5.50. The smoked haddock tortellini is frankly, just glorious. Three peaked pasta trilbies are stuffed with smoky fish and served lounging on a bed of soft, buttery leaks. A crispy streak of pancetta wobbles on top adding a lovely salty crunch. The seared mackerel with horseradish souffle is also highly recommended. This hugely underrated fish is jam-packed with flavour and the soft puff of eggy souffle has enough kick to balance out the oily fish.

The main courses are fantastically French with none of the dishes exceeding £14. The roast breast and confit leg of mallard is cooked rare, which brings out its rich, gamey flavour. The accompanying fig and red onion tartlet and creamed savoy cabbage gives the whole dish a comforting glow. There is one vegetarian option, the croustilliant of mushrooms served with a white onion and truffle fondue which would tempt even the most dedicated of meat eaters. The assiette of pork holds a whole host of pork treats. Soft, honey roasted belly pork sits on warm, pickled cabbage, while a nubbin of succulent pork fillet balances a delicious wisp of crispy crackling. Served with a crispy filo square filled with shredded pork and a roll of black pudding, this is a dish truly for meat lovers.

For dessert, the dark chocolate fondant with truffle ice cream is a must. Warm, gooey chocolate pud with a fantastically rich ice cream certainly ticks the comfort food box. For those with lighter appetites, or just for those who have stuffed themselves silly on the first two courses, the warm roasted figs with a fromage frais bavarois is soft, sweet and just perfect end to a rich meal.

The Drink
In France, an aperitif is an essential start to an evening meal and there is a fine range on offer here from the traditional Kir Royal to a more colonial Bombay Sapphire and tonic. The wine list is extensive and of course, very French. The house wine is a nice Vin de Pays and a snip at £13 a bottle. There are some pricier labels on offer, with a surprising Californian Chardonnay at the £50 mark, but for those who know their wine, it's well chosen enough to hold their interest. A good range of wines by the glass are available, and for those celebratory occasions there's a short fizz list.

The Last Word
Tom's delicious and beautifully presented French food at wallet-friendly prices all makes for happy, regular customers. Tom Ilic is set to become a firm Battersea favourite. Recommended.

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