The acclaimed cooking of Tom Aikens meets the Central London glamour of Somerset House.

The Venue
From live music to film screenings to ice skating, Somerset House wears all sorts of hats when it comes to entertaining Londoners but until now, it’s never been that well known for its food. Enter Tom Aikens, celebrity chef famed for his Chelsea restaurants Tom’s Kitchen, Tom Aikens and the now defunct Tom’s Place. Tom’s Terrace is the first of three venues of Aikens’ in the works for Somerset House, the remaining two being a second location of Tom’s Kitchen and a deli.

Tom’s Terrace is an outdoor dining area set on the terrace of Somerset House. Covered by a spiky, circus-style tent, the restaurant is divided in two by a central bar, with the bar area in the east end and restaurant area in the west. The furniture is plastic, despite the bar’s large black armchairs looking like leather from a distance. In the restaurant section, the furniture is white, crisp and clean, with rows of plants and grasses acting as dividers to give guests more privacy. There are also a few small, high tables where you can peer through the trees towards the Thames. This being London, heaters at outdoor venues are a must and the ones at Tom’s Terrace are inconspicuously placed and give out a generous amount of warmth.

The Atmosphere
Despite the proximity to the Embankment and vast amount of traffic whizzing by, the atmosphere at Tom’s Terrace is relaxed and intimate. There’s a hip, upbeat soundtrack playing and service is quick and charming. The kitchen, which is tucked away near the bar, is small but open, so you can see the chefs working seamlessly and amicably togther.

The Food
Those that have been to Tom’s Kitchen will find several similar dishes on the menu at Tom’s Terrace – even the font is the same – but the amount on offer has been pared down to about half a dozen starters, mains and desserts. Prices are on the high side but still less than Tom’s Kitchen, with starters ranging from £8.50 to £13.50, mains at £14.50 to £17.50 and most desserts at £8.

Things start well with a small bowl of marinated olives, garlic and onions – they’re delicious but the clear plastic toothpicks aren’t quite sharp enough to stab the more stubborn pieces, resulting in an olive or two making a leap to freedom. Chicken liver and foie gras parfait (£13.50) is presented nicely on a large, curvy wooden board with two thick pieces of brioche and small pots of grape chutney and cornichons. The parfait itself is scooped into a little round ball and sprinkled with sea salt, and the taste is smooth, creamy and decadent. There’s plenty of soft, sweet brioche and the chutney has a perfect amount of spice so that it doesn’t overwhelm the parfait. The tartine of red onion and aubergine compote has a wonderful smoky-sweet flavour, with crisp bread and flakes of slightly sharp goat’s cheese.

The burger (£14.50) arrives cooked to order and although it looks small in size, it makes up for it by being quite thick – be prepared to cut it in half, which helps. The extra £1 for gherkins seems a bit excessive, though, especially since there’s already one on the plate, but the accompanying big chips don’t make promises they can’t keep – they are indeed big, and fat and crisp, too. Hot smoked Loch Duart salmon (£17.50) is actually cold, hot smoked being the way the fish is prepared. The dish is actually more like a salad, with chunks of salmon scattered through with watercress and soft boiled egg, but the fish has a good texture and a subtle flavour, enhanced by the mustard dressing. A side of ratatouille £4.50 is excellent, with plenty of Mediterranean veg – the highlight being the tender aubergine.

A dessert of mango rice pudding (£8) is cooked well with the rice a good consistency but the mango is quite sharp and there’s a syrupy layer at the bottom that’s slightly off-putting. Eton Mess, on the other hand, proves to be the better of the two, with layers of meringue, raspberry coulis and sharp, summery fruit.

The Drink
The wine list is short and to the point, with six whites, six reds and two roses, from £5 to £8.75 a glass and £19.50 to £69 a bottle. The French Syrah (£5.50/£22) is rich and full bodied, with a hint of liquorice, whilst the white F. Girard Sancerre (£8.24/£32.50) is strong and sweet. Champagne, prosecco, Peroni, Magners, summery cocktails (£9.50 to £10) and various spirits complete the list, whilst on the non-alcoholic selection includes teas, coffees, soft drinks and Malvern water. There’s also a separate bar menu, with snacks and sharing plates.

The Last Word
At outdoor restaurants the food can sometimes play second fiddle to the atmosphere but with an interesting, easygoing menu designed by Tom Aikens, the food at Tom’s Terrace definitely lives up to its impressive location.

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