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The Londoner's Guide to London
22 August 2008
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Trattoria Italiana Biagio

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15-17 Villiers Street,
London,
WC2N 6ND

0871 971 7267 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byEmma Harper14/11/2007
Part of the Biagio Group, Trattoria Italiana is a passable version of a traditional Italian trattoria in the centre of London, offering no frills hearty Italian fare at reasonable prices.

The Venue
Located on Villier's Street, a major thoroughfare between Charing Cross and Embankment, Trattoria Italiana does a roaring trade and is a popular tourist spot. Despite this it does manage to capture a degree of authenticity. Busy waiters bustle between tables and struggle to make themselves heard over the loud chatter and clatter around them. The restaurant is cluttered with Italian paraphernalia, wine bottles, flasks and prints creating a homely feel. The tables are packed in close but the effect is cosy rather than oppressive, although you may struggle to find room for your food on the smaller tables.

The Atmosphere
This is a lively and informal restaurant. Due to the small space you are likely to be elbow to elbow with your fellow dinners so it is not a venue for an intimate date or a very large group. Trattoria Italiana attracts a mixed crowd of old, young, tourists and locals as the menu is varied and reasonable in price.

The Food
The antipasti selection is mostly simple dishes such as melon and parma ham or prawn cocktail. The Insalata Tricolore consists of a healthy portion of each of the constituent parts: tomato, mozzarella and avocado. The ingredients are fresh, although the £5.50 price tag feels a little steep for this dish. As such you are probably better off opting for Gamberoni del Mediterraneo, pan-fried prawns in a rich white wine sauce.

The main course menu is extensive, if a little unimaginative, with numerous pasta, meat and fish dishes. There are also a number of variations on several of the dishes such as the veal escalope which can be dressed up with ham and cheese, mozzarella or numerous sauces. The thin slices of veal are cooked lightly enough to be tender and the ham, cheese and tomato sauce work well together. The accompanying green salad is disappointing and heavy on the lettuce; better to opt for the hot vegetables such as the cauliflower cheese or seasonal vegetables of the day.

Desserts follow in the same vein as starters – simple, traditional choices. The generous helpings of banoffee pie come with large chunks of banana, although it is a little on the sickly side.

The Drink
Trattoria Italiano has a good selection of Italian wines in the £15 - £20 bracket, as well as a few others from around the world. The Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is a good option if you want to order by the glass; strong in colour with a fruity flavour.

The Last Word
Trattoria Italiana is worth a visit if you are in the area, although sister restaurant Piccolo Diavolo pips it to the post both in terms of atmosphere and service.
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