11-12 Russell Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2B 5HZ
0844 371 2550
The ViewLondon Review
In the heart of Covent Garden the sister restaurant of the recently defunct Rock Garden now takes centre stage.
The Venue
Popular for pre-theatre dining, after half past seven it’s far less packed so choose your time accordingly. The main dining room is filled with simply set, low lit tables and angled mirrors, there’s an outdoor terrace, private dining rooms in the Vault downstairs, a bar and a downstairs kitchen; all slightly disjointed. The focal point is clearly Covent Garden itself, an entertaining view through the vast glass windows.
The Atmosphere
The staff reflect the general atmosphere, without being a prominent feature they are attentive and always on hand. However as the meal progresses and you haven’t had a chance to top up your glass yourself once, the attention could become a little wearing and the wine a little warm if you’re not quite ready for it. Perhaps too used to a quick turn-around for those customers stopping for a bite before a show, the service is swift but doesn’t allow for much respite between courses.
The Food
The pre-theatre meal deal is a smaller, similar version of the a la carte, and the angled blackboard (balancing out the sloped mirrors opposite) details daily changing specials with seasonal ingredients. But for classic choices there’s no need to deviate from the main menu. Starters of smoked haddock fishcakes (£6.50) are served on sliced cucumber with drizzle of sweet chilli sauce, but they’re only partly warm and there’s no sign of the promised mint salad. The smoked duck breast (£7.25) lacks strong flavour, however, the dish is raised with an inspired combination of creamy dollops of mozzarella and crisp slices of pear.
The top end steak is an 8oz sirloin (£18.95), a succulent piece of carefully sourced British beef, accompanied by buttery Bearnaise and fat chips. If only the source of the potatoes were as prided as the meat, instead a rich greasy coat is their overpowering feature. Grilled cod (£16.50), from sustainable stocks, flakes effortlessly into the red wine jus and chive mash – each component complementing well, yet without any stand-out flavour. Traceability seems to take presidence over taste. Chocolate brownie dessert is a triumph - moist, squidgy and melting the vanilla ice cream perfectly. Pistachio creme brulee has a crisp top that cracks to reveal a smooth if startlingly green custard – coating the almost savoury pistachio biscotti, made to be dunked.
The Drink
A bottle of Embleme d’argent Colombard VDP, is a well selected and priced house white at £14.95. It heads up a varied list of almost a dozen choices under each category of white, red and Champagne and sparkling wines. There’s also a nice cocktail list (£6.95), with surprising twists which you might not expect from such a classic food menu.
The Last Word
Pre-theatre through and through, from the preparation to the speed of service. Although the menu isn’t quite deserving of a standing ovation, eating at Tuttons does guarantee you the best seat in the house every time.
Tuttons Restaurant and Brasserie has been reviewed by 8 users