58 Poland Street,
Soho,
London,
W1F 7NR
(020) 7734 1444
The ViewLondon Review
Dark, cool, vibrant, sultry; this branch of Ukai Sushi fits the Soho mould perfectly.
The Venue
Subtle from the outside but fancy on the inside: low-lit, loud (but not too loud) music, and a mix of tables for two and large square tables for those who don’t mind sharing. The places are set with black chopsticks, pretty patterned plates, and ceramic soy pots ready for dipping. The waiters are reassuringly Japanese and know the menu well.
The Atmosphere
Go before a night out, for post-Oxford Street shopping sushi, a date, to catch-up with friends… Ukai is special enough for an occasion and good enough for you to find any excuse. Stylish without pretense, it’s too cool for a conveyor belt and keeps the chefs safely behind kitchen doors.
The Food
Start with sushi. And if you want, stop there too, because it’s definitely the star of the show. Exquisitely thick and tender slices of salmon sashimi (£5.85) literally melt in the mouth. The seabass is so subtle and delicate it doesn’t even need its nigiri rice bed (£5.75). Bite-size spicy tuna hosomaki rolls (£4.75) are sprinkled with an addictive, fiery chilli dust that you’ll probably want more of (and may be given, if you ask nicely). Seaweed salad with slivers of cucumber, beansprouts and a light sesame dressing (£5.40) is what the Japanese call a 'hashi-yasume' - a clean, fresh palate cleanser. Portions are small for the price, but the quality shines through.
There’s also a range of hot dishes, and it’s worth straying from the raw delights to sample some. The tempura soft-shell crab (£8.65) contrasts barely-there batter with meaty white and brown crab, and is deliciously moreish. Yakitori skewers of succulent chicken thigh and shitaake mushrooms (£6.55), glazed with a lip-smacking, sticky-sweet sauce, follow suit.
The Ukai beef (£8.75) is sadly spoiled by being served in tough, well-done pieces, it would be better rare and thinly sliced instead - diners happy to indulge in raw fish would surely appreciate their meat towards the bluer end of the spectrum. The sauce on the other hand is stellar; rich with powerful umami flavour.
A dessert of fudge chocolate brownie with a slick of ganache is worth saving room for. The accompanying green tea ice-cream captures the grassy, freshly-brewed leaves in frozen form, with just a hint of sweetness (£6.60).
The Drink
Wine ranges from £15 for a crisp house white, to £32 for a bottle of Chablis. For a boost before the meal starts, have a pot of warm sake. And, to counterbalance, finish with a pot of jasmine tea - a bargain at £2.50 with free refills.
The Last Word
Some of the sexiest sashimi in Soho.
Ukai Soho has been reviewed by 13 users