Lovers of Japanese cuisine will recognise that all-too-familiar craving for raw fish. For some it’s the soft, delicate tuna flesh that they desire, for others the warm hug of ginger and feisty kick of sinus-sweeping wasabi that does it. So when south Londoners can’t bat off the cravings any more, they head on down to Lavender Hill and feast on fish until the wagyu cows come home.

The Venue
Ukai is the latest branch of the new sushi chain to open in London, which already has a loyal following in Notting Hill and Westbourne Grove. Situated on the Vauxhall end of Lavender Hill, Ukai is small and mildly unassuming. Yet behind the smoky glass frontage is a casual, cafe-style dining room decked out in stylish dark wood furnishings. The tables are adorned with just the essentials, tea lights, chopsticks, pretty jugs of soy sauce and small dipping dishes. The dark, mottled walls and low-level amber lights gives the room a cosy, albeit slightly seedy appeal. One wall is filled with essential Japanese ingredients to buy for sushi lovers who really think they’ll try it at home – they also offer delivery and takeaway in case you’re not good at DIY.

The Atmosphere
Despite being a wet and windy Wednesday night, Ukai is almost full. The reasonable prices and decent sushi makes it a popular local haunt with students, young professionals and those keen to sate their raw-fish cravings. Chilled house music adds to the relaxed atmosphere and the staff are friendly and keen, although not as swift as some sushi-addicts would like.

The Food
The menu describes each type of sushi simply but well and all your usual suspects – sashimi, nigiri, futomaki and the inside-out uramaki – are available,. The sashimi of tuna and sea bass is served deliciously raw with daikon (shredded white Japanese radish), ginger and that damned addictive wasabi. The tuna hosomaki (£3.90 for five pieces) comes well-prepared as a sliver of fresh tuna simply rolled with rice and seaweed. However, it’s the smear of green wasabi and a sliver of ginger that really brings it to life. The miso soup is always good for warming the bones and here it’s delicious and a steal at £2. The thin stock is packed with squidgy tofu, tasty seaweed and the bite of spring onion.

There are also some interesting salads on offer, including the daikon salad roll, which is filled with rocket, avocado, enoki mushrooms and a daikon ginger dressing (£5.50 for six pieces). The mixed platters are generally good value and perfect for those not entirely sure what to order. The salmon mix (£9.90 for 11 pieces) features a selection of salmon sashimi, nigiri and hosomaki, a gentle start into the art of sushi ordering. For those with a sweet tooth there are a small selection of desserts on the menu, such as warm chocolate brownie with ice cream (£5.50) and green tea and vanilla panna cotta (£5.50).

The Drink
Sake is a fine accompaniment to sushi, however it is definitely an acquired taste. Try the Kubota Senju at £6.50 for 180ml. If sake’s not your thing opt for nice decent Japanese beer like Asahi dark (£3.50 bottle), Asahi (£3) or Sapporo (£3.20). The house white wine is a French wine at £15 a bottle, or for those with slightly more expensive tastes, a bottle of Chablis costs £30. Champagne might be a surprising partner to sushi, however a nice dry brut will cut through the oiliness of the fish perfectly. Ukai’s house fizz is a steal at £29, but if pink’s more your style try a Laurent Perrier Rose at £69 a bottle.

The Last Word
Ukai is a good neighbourhood restaurant which offers fresh, well-prepared sushi in a friendly, chilled out atmosphere.

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